18th - 23rd September, 2021
Hotel Tre Rose, Nesso, Italy
We had scheduled a break from the constant travelling during the planning phase of our trip. Lake Como was chosen for an extended stay to relax and unwind. It was 4½ hours driving time from Florence; a distance to which we had become accustomed and took in our stride at this point.
We had booked a hotel at Nesso, a village alongside the Lake, rather than in Como itself as a change from the city life of Florence. It became clear as we made our way along the narrow, winding roads alongside the Lake, that we wouldn't be doing much exploration by road once we'd arrived at our destination. There were frequent hold ups as vehicles waited to pass and the journey on this stretch took a disproportionate amount of time to complete. We were nonetheless, treated to ever increasing, amazing vistas.
Once we had negotiated our luggage up to the 5th floor without the aid of a lift, we found seats overlooking the Lake and watched the sun's rays create a theatre backdrop as the sun went down. We stayed in our seats and ate our meal directly overlooking the lake. After darkness came, so another beautiful vista opened as we took in the lights disappearing along the valley.
We had booked a hotel at Nesso, a village alongside the Lake, rather than in Como itself as a change from the city life of Florence. It became clear as we made our way along the narrow, winding roads alongside the Lake, that we wouldn't be doing much exploration by road once we'd arrived at our destination. There were frequent hold ups as vehicles waited to pass and the journey on this stretch took a disproportionate amount of time to complete. We were nonetheless, treated to ever increasing, amazing vistas.
Once we had negotiated our luggage up to the 5th floor without the aid of a lift, we found seats overlooking the Lake and watched the sun's rays create a theatre backdrop as the sun went down. We stayed in our seats and ate our meal directly overlooking the lake. After darkness came, so another beautiful vista opened as we took in the lights disappearing along the valley.
We knew that our second day wasn't forecast to be good; the first rain we were to experience since leaving home. However, in keeping with our desire to relax and chill out, we were happy with the thought of not doing much on our first full day. The storm arrived with a bang in the night and we had a front row seat watching the sky light up with sheet lightning. I'd hoped for some forked lightning, however it wasn't to be! As light dawned we watched banks of cloud drift across the lake and then experienced tremendous downpours during the day, which felt as if buckets were being emptied rather than just rain falling from the clouds; an amazing experience.
The day was brightened by Antonietta, the resident chief cook and bottle washer. She greeted us with a hearty "Buon giorno" as she served up an ample breakfast. Speaking no English we were able to communicate our drink requirements as well as learn some Italian along the way. There was a slight mishap with our coffee when Antonietta lifted our cups onto the table without taking account of balance. A full cup crashed to the floor. No matter, Antonietta was totally unruffled and together with a mop and bucket, also ushered a little old fella out from a back room to help. In no time at all it was cleaned up and the little old fella sat at a table next to us with some breakfast too. He had such a cheery smile and demeanour, we were sure he was related to Antonietta!
The day was brightened by Antonietta, the resident chief cook and bottle washer. She greeted us with a hearty "Buon giorno" as she served up an ample breakfast. Speaking no English we were able to communicate our drink requirements as well as learn some Italian along the way. There was a slight mishap with our coffee when Antonietta lifted our cups onto the table without taking account of balance. A full cup crashed to the floor. No matter, Antonietta was totally unruffled and together with a mop and bucket, also ushered a little old fella out from a back room to help. In no time at all it was cleaned up and the little old fella sat at a table next to us with some breakfast too. He had such a cheery smile and demeanour, we were sure he was related to Antonietta!
Evening came and the rain eased. We decided to stretch our legs and set off downhill towards the lake. Nesso is perched on a hillside and everything is either up or downhill; it was a good work out as we uncovered the secrets of this lovely little village. Water crashed down the mountain sides, the cobbled roads shimmered and we trod carefully as we reached the lowest point at the ferry terminal. We'd decided to use the ferry as our means of transport during our stay, to discover what the lake had to offer and intended a visit to Bellagio the next day. Finding our way back to the hotel, we uncovered another delight this place had to offer - prosecco on tap! Unbelievably too, it cost just 8€ a quarter of a litre; we were going to enjoy this R & R stop!
The next day we set off for the ferry terminal in plenty of time to catch our 10am ferry. Just as well really. A council lorry and workmen were unblocking sewage pipes below the village. The smell was horrendous and we rushed to get past whilst not breathing in the stinking air. We arrived at the riverside and were shocked to see that we could see the ferry terminal, yet couldn't get to it. We were separated by about 100m of water. Realising we'd missed a turn, we retraced our steps back up towards the village. The sewage lorry had been parked right infront of the fork where we should've taken the left turn.
Having left plenty of time to catch the ferry, we made the 10am sailing somewhat wiser about the tracks around the village.
The ferry was fairly full by the time we boarded and we squeezed into a spot on the forward deck below the captain's bridge. It was cold on the water, however there was strength in the sun when it touched us.
As the ferry criss-crossed the lake travelling northwards, we became disorientated as to where we were. A map is flat and two-dimensional and it wasn't until we stopped off at different villages and see the names, that we were able to get a sense of where we were. That sense of placement however, disappeared when we rounded a bend and could see snow capped mountains in the distance. We all just stared in amazement and wanted to see more of this unexpected vista.
Having left plenty of time to catch the ferry, we made the 10am sailing somewhat wiser about the tracks around the village.
The ferry was fairly full by the time we boarded and we squeezed into a spot on the forward deck below the captain's bridge. It was cold on the water, however there was strength in the sun when it touched us.
As the ferry criss-crossed the lake travelling northwards, we became disorientated as to where we were. A map is flat and two-dimensional and it wasn't until we stopped off at different villages and see the names, that we were able to get a sense of where we were. That sense of placement however, disappeared when we rounded a bend and could see snow capped mountains in the distance. We all just stared in amazement and wanted to see more of this unexpected vista.
We arrived at Bellagio which is situated at the tip of a promontory where two parts of Lake Como join after a boat trip of about 1½ hours. The obvious attraction of this town to tourists was evidenced by the abundant souvenir shops near the water's edge. We wanted to get out of the commercial area and headed up and out of the ferry port area. We followed a route which looked promising, only to find ourselves on the other side of the promontory at the water's edge with nowhere else to go. One gallant lady was trying to sunbathe, squashed up on a the only piece of sand next to a wall, together with her cat which was disdainfully ignoring a barking dog on the wall above! Time for a retreat and back up the steep, narrow track which had shown such early promise.
Making our way along another, crowded route, we found ourselves beside a small marina and watched as the car ferries plied across the lake. There didn't seem much more to see at Bellagio and we debated whether to return to Nesso earlier than we'd envisaged. Instead, we decided to fill time until our scheduled return, with eating and people watching in the main square; an enjoyable experience.
On our return to Nesso, we of course had a steep climb back to the hotel. However knowing that our supply of prosecco awaited, eased the pain and we very quickly covered the ground with only a few stops! A full moon shining over the lake later on, completed a really enjoyable time on our second full day.
Making our way along another, crowded route, we found ourselves beside a small marina and watched as the car ferries plied across the lake. There didn't seem much more to see at Bellagio and we debated whether to return to Nesso earlier than we'd envisaged. Instead, we decided to fill time until our scheduled return, with eating and people watching in the main square; an enjoyable experience.
On our return to Nesso, we of course had a steep climb back to the hotel. However knowing that our supply of prosecco awaited, eased the pain and we very quickly covered the ground with only a few stops! A full moon shining over the lake later on, completed a really enjoyable time on our second full day.
On our third day we took the ferry southwards towards the town of Como. A slightly shorter trip this time and with much more to see en route. We knew that George Clooney and his wife had a house overlooking the lake at Liaglio and were determined to spot it! Our main ambition however, was to find the Funicolare Como-Brunate and get high above the city.
We walked in the direction where we believed the fenicular to be located, not even sure it would be running. However, we caught sight of a train coming down the mountain just as we found the station. Quickly purchasing tickets we found our way onto the train at the front end just before departure. All we could see was a tunnel which seemed to go on for quite a while before the train burst into the open and sunlight. It was a completely automatic system with no driver and was extremely smooth.
Once at the top we stopped for a coffee and to take in the views. Whilst looking out from a terraced area, an Italian guy standing next to a Land Rover, asked if we wanted to go up to the lighthouse further up the hill. Looking upwards and gauging the distance to be too far for us to feel like walking, we asked how much. He told us 5€ which we thought was very reasonable. We paid him our money and even added an extra 5€ by way of thanks. He showed us an old 10,000 lira bank note and suggested it was worth about 5€ today putting into context the era in which the lighthouse was built. He gave a running commentary all the way up and explained that the lighthouse had been built to commemorate the life of Alessandro Volta who invented the electric battery, amongst other things. We were glad not to be walking as some people had decided to do.
As we neared the top, our driver started to point out a walkway, which we understood would take us back down to where he had first spoken with us. It only then dawned on us that we hadn't bought a return ticket; talk about being duped!
We climbed up to the lighthouse and saw we could climb inside the structure and reach the top. We negotiated all 145 steps and were treated to some stunning views as far as Switzerland and Milan. Then all that remained was to walk down to the railway station again and make our way into the town of Como for some more exploration and our ferry back to Nesso.
Of course the long uphill walk awaited, however thoughts of prosecco again fortified us and although the hill seemed steeper this time, we soon forgot about our tiredness as we sat down to savour our reward!
We walked in the direction where we believed the fenicular to be located, not even sure it would be running. However, we caught sight of a train coming down the mountain just as we found the station. Quickly purchasing tickets we found our way onto the train at the front end just before departure. All we could see was a tunnel which seemed to go on for quite a while before the train burst into the open and sunlight. It was a completely automatic system with no driver and was extremely smooth.
Once at the top we stopped for a coffee and to take in the views. Whilst looking out from a terraced area, an Italian guy standing next to a Land Rover, asked if we wanted to go up to the lighthouse further up the hill. Looking upwards and gauging the distance to be too far for us to feel like walking, we asked how much. He told us 5€ which we thought was very reasonable. We paid him our money and even added an extra 5€ by way of thanks. He showed us an old 10,000 lira bank note and suggested it was worth about 5€ today putting into context the era in which the lighthouse was built. He gave a running commentary all the way up and explained that the lighthouse had been built to commemorate the life of Alessandro Volta who invented the electric battery, amongst other things. We were glad not to be walking as some people had decided to do.
As we neared the top, our driver started to point out a walkway, which we understood would take us back down to where he had first spoken with us. It only then dawned on us that we hadn't bought a return ticket; talk about being duped!
We climbed up to the lighthouse and saw we could climb inside the structure and reach the top. We negotiated all 145 steps and were treated to some stunning views as far as Switzerland and Milan. Then all that remained was to walk down to the railway station again and make our way into the town of Como for some more exploration and our ferry back to Nesso.
Of course the long uphill walk awaited, however thoughts of prosecco again fortified us and although the hill seemed steeper this time, we soon forgot about our tiredness as we sat down to savour our reward!
For our last day at Lake Como we considered village hopping via the ferry, however there was also a logistics problem. There were limited ferries to Nesso and not all boats called at all places. There were options such as using a bus or water taxi, however these alternatives required planning and clock watching. We decided to head back to Como as there were still things to see and do.
As we left for the ferry, so the old fella who'd taken a shine to Pat, asked me to take a photo of them together. Of course I obliged and also took the opportunity to call Antonietta to come out and have her photo taken too.
Once on the ferry, we concentrated and researched again the location of George Clooney's house. This time, there was no doubt we'd spotted it and so we could relax! Arriving in Como again, we just wandered along the lakeside, There was plenty to see and do and the leaves were beginning to gain an Autumn tinge which added additional colour.
We caught the last ferry back to Nesso, content that we had indeed made the most of our time in this beautiful area. We rounded the last bend heading into the landing stage at Nesso, trying to spot our hotel high in the midst of the cluster of houses. As we docked, Pat was beside herself with laughter because unbeknown to me, Chris had been pointing out various recognisable buildings when I'd left to disembark. Likening his actions to that of a conductor with an imaginary orchestra, we giggled our way back up the hill and to our last get together with the Prosecco. As we came up the last slope approaching the hotel, the old fella was standing beside his car parked in front of a house. Apparently this was his home and we were given an open invitation to return and stay with him next time, although of course, without Pat it would be a non-starter!
It was a lovely end to a most memorable stay on Lake Como. All that was left to do then, was to pack our cases and haul them down from the 5th floor to be stacked in the car once more.