Iceland
February 21st - 28th, 2014
Day 1
After landing at Keflavik airport having realised I'd left my laptop in Gatwick security, worse was to come. As we waited to board the bus to take us into Reykjavik, Brian realised he'd left his wallet on the plane. With Baz having lost his return bus ticket as well, it was a rather sombre bus trip, not helped at all by the bleak vista which greeted us. Low, flat, barren land seeming to stretch for miles was all we could see as darkness fell. Tiredness added to our low spirits and the journey seemed to go on forever, however eventually we were dropped off near a building site and directed to a building on the other side of the road as our destination, Einholt Apartments.
The apartment was on the top floor up four flights of stairs (the last three windows on the right hand side of the block were ours) and the heating was extremely efficient. The apartment itself was comfortable and well equiped although empty of food and drink. There was nothing for it; we dragged our weary bodies outside to see what was available. We soon discovered that downtown Reykjavik does not go in for pavements! We managed to get down to the bay area however and had a bit of a walk, finding a garage to buy a drink and some sandwiches. We stopped off at a Pizza place near to our apartment for our first meal in Reykjavik - high living indeed! All we really wanted to do though was get to bed and sleep; we had an early start the next day.
After landing at Keflavik airport having realised I'd left my laptop in Gatwick security, worse was to come. As we waited to board the bus to take us into Reykjavik, Brian realised he'd left his wallet on the plane. With Baz having lost his return bus ticket as well, it was a rather sombre bus trip, not helped at all by the bleak vista which greeted us. Low, flat, barren land seeming to stretch for miles was all we could see as darkness fell. Tiredness added to our low spirits and the journey seemed to go on forever, however eventually we were dropped off near a building site and directed to a building on the other side of the road as our destination, Einholt Apartments.
The apartment was on the top floor up four flights of stairs (the last three windows on the right hand side of the block were ours) and the heating was extremely efficient. The apartment itself was comfortable and well equiped although empty of food and drink. There was nothing for it; we dragged our weary bodies outside to see what was available. We soon discovered that downtown Reykjavik does not go in for pavements! We managed to get down to the bay area however and had a bit of a walk, finding a garage to buy a drink and some sandwiches. We stopped off at a Pizza place near to our apartment for our first meal in Reykjavik - high living indeed! All we really wanted to do though was get to bed and sleep; we had an early start the next day.
Day 2
Next morning we went outside to meet Rafn (sounds like Rabbi, no, don't ask!), our guide for the first two days. He told us that there were two rules. The first rule was to yell out stop if we saw anything we wanted to photograph and the second rule was to pay attention to the first rule! The atmosphere was still a bit gloomy, however, once out of the built up area and travelling southwards the emerging sunrise started to captivate us. It wasn't long before we stopped alongside the road where a row of trees directed our eyes towards the distant mountains and the subtle colours appearing. It was icy however, and Baz and I were soon sitting down so we could concentrate on taking a photo rather than standing upright!
With difficulty we dragged ourselves away from this photo opportunity and Rafn drove on towards Thingvellira. Rafn dropped us off and indicated a walk which would take us through the area and across the river to the other side where he would wait for us. I must admit that at this time I was a bit concerned that our desire to go to areas off the beaten track had been misunderstood. This fear was even more pronounced when we looked back and high on a ridge there were hoards of tourists ready to descend into the area.
Next morning we went outside to meet Rafn (sounds like Rabbi, no, don't ask!), our guide for the first two days. He told us that there were two rules. The first rule was to yell out stop if we saw anything we wanted to photograph and the second rule was to pay attention to the first rule! The atmosphere was still a bit gloomy, however, once out of the built up area and travelling southwards the emerging sunrise started to captivate us. It wasn't long before we stopped alongside the road where a row of trees directed our eyes towards the distant mountains and the subtle colours appearing. It was icy however, and Baz and I were soon sitting down so we could concentrate on taking a photo rather than standing upright!
With difficulty we dragged ourselves away from this photo opportunity and Rafn drove on towards Thingvellira. Rafn dropped us off and indicated a walk which would take us through the area and across the river to the other side where he would wait for us. I must admit that at this time I was a bit concerned that our desire to go to areas off the beaten track had been misunderstood. This fear was even more pronounced when we looked back and high on a ridge there were hoards of tourists ready to descend into the area.
Our next stop allayed any fears I had about being a "normal" tourist! Rafn drove us to Brúarárfoss an area containing a few summer houses and seemingly nothing else. He said we'd be walking for 15-20 mins and as I had bought some Trax to go below my boots, I decided to put them on as I could see plenty of ice. What a good move that was; walking along I heard a thud and turned to see Baz sprawled on his side. He didn't have Trax and had obviously hurt himself also ripping his insulated trousers in the process. He did "man up" however, and the two in front weren't initially aware of his fall.
Picking our way along frozen waterways we suddenly emerged to find ouselves on a wooden bridge and a magnificent river below us. The water was icy blue and we could see ice sculptures had been created by the rushing waters. This place was where we learnt of the freedom which exists in Iceland; we were able to go where we wanted, provided we felt capable, even though there was a shut gate.
I made it down beside the river and really loved capturing the rushing water as well as the ice forms. The blues from the previous day had been well and truly banished by now.
Picking our way along frozen waterways we suddenly emerged to find ouselves on a wooden bridge and a magnificent river below us. The water was icy blue and we could see ice sculptures had been created by the rushing waters. This place was where we learnt of the freedom which exists in Iceland; we were able to go where we wanted, provided we felt capable, even though there was a shut gate.
I made it down beside the river and really loved capturing the rushing water as well as the ice forms. The blues from the previous day had been well and truly banished by now.
Leaving behind our secret gem, we headed into what I consider to be the most bizarre event on the whole trip. Stopping off at the Skálholt church, I noticed a flag at half mast. Rafn went inside to investigate then gesticulated for us to follow him inside. Unbelievably, the church was all set for a funeral and the coffin was already in place. It felt so intrusive, however we were reassured by both Rafn and others inside that we were welcome and could take whatever photos we wished, include the coffin! I tried to concentrate on the outer walls rather than inside the church, however my images clearly show a lack of concentration! It really was a surreal experience.
Our next stop was beside a partly frozen lagoon. I found the various colours contained and reflected in the ice and water fascinating; so different from anything I'd seen before. The views of the mountains were amazing, however we were looking for something of interest for the foreground when we spotted a field of Icelandic horses. Rafn was a bit dubious about our entering the field, however we decided to take a chance. The horses headed towards us and soon surrounded us. They were gentle and friendly and apart from nibbling away at my coat, I didn't feel threatened at all. We had a job trying to get far enough away from them to be able to take the photos we'd wanted, however the bonus was some close ups of these beautiful creatures. I looked up and saw a rider on a horse galloping towards us and sensed we were in trouble. Sure enough, it was the owner and he was livid. Rafn by now was out of the field and we slowly made our exit and into the 4x4 watching Rafn being read the riot act. The man eventually rode off at a furious pace further down the road and Rafn asked if we had 3,000 kroner (20€) we would be willing to give the guy. We were more than happy and when he headed back towards us, still very angry, it was amusing to see the change in his demeanour and facial expression when he saw the money! In the end we parted on friendly terms and the suggestion was even put to Rafn that it may be possible to bring some more tourists to see the horses in the future!
Our next stop was beside a partly frozen lagoon. I found the various colours contained and reflected in the ice and water fascinating; so different from anything I'd seen before. The views of the mountains were amazing, however we were looking for something of interest for the foreground when we spotted a field of Icelandic horses. Rafn was a bit dubious about our entering the field, however we decided to take a chance. The horses headed towards us and soon surrounded us. They were gentle and friendly and apart from nibbling away at my coat, I didn't feel threatened at all. We had a job trying to get far enough away from them to be able to take the photos we'd wanted, however the bonus was some close ups of these beautiful creatures. I looked up and saw a rider on a horse galloping towards us and sensed we were in trouble. Sure enough, it was the owner and he was livid. Rafn by now was out of the field and we slowly made our exit and into the 4x4 watching Rafn being read the riot act. The man eventually rode off at a furious pace further down the road and Rafn asked if we had 3,000 kroner (20€) we would be willing to give the guy. We were more than happy and when he headed back towards us, still very angry, it was amusing to see the change in his demeanour and facial expression when he saw the money! In the end we parted on friendly terms and the suggestion was even put to Rafn that it may be possible to bring some more tourists to see the horses in the future!
At our next stop we were in for a real experience - walking behind the Seljalendsfoss waterfall. However, just before we made the turn towards the waterfall there was a chorus of shouts to stop as we'd seen a beautiful reflection in some water beside the road. Standing on the 4x4 was the only way to capture the reflection however as the stretch of water was quite narrow.
The falls themselves were impressive and as we approached we saw that the path to get behind was iced over. Undaunted, Baz and I made our way carefully up steps and along narrow paths until we were behind the waterfall. It was here that it was possible to experience the full force of the water dropping some 60 metres. Spray shot up and the noise was deafening. It was difficult taking photos, not because my camera wasn't protected but because my glasses kept getting wet and I couldn't see properly! On the way back, Baz decided that he was going to take the easy route and slide rather than walk. I had on my Trax so felt smug!
The falls themselves were impressive and as we approached we saw that the path to get behind was iced over. Undaunted, Baz and I made our way carefully up steps and along narrow paths until we were behind the waterfall. It was here that it was possible to experience the full force of the water dropping some 60 metres. Spray shot up and the noise was deafening. It was difficult taking photos, not because my camera wasn't protected but because my glasses kept getting wet and I couldn't see properly! On the way back, Baz decided that he was going to take the easy route and slide rather than walk. I had on my Trax so felt smug!
We were convinced that the waterfall would be our last stop for the day and we'd be heading towards our B&B for the night. Not at all; Rafn still had some other places to show us!
We headed off across some flatlands to where the gradually diminishing daylight was still lighting up the beach at Reynisfjara. It was a struggle to actually get to the beach because the wind was so strong, added to which a coach load of kids arrived just after we did and it was difficult to get clear shots of the rock formations. I loved the way the onshore wind was whipping spray from the breaking waves high and back out to sea. The white foam by the rough sea contrasted well with the dark black beach. The basalt columns out to sea are much photographed and I although I wanted to do something more, the weather made it impossible to do more than simply capture them regardless! There were some spectacular rock shapes and formations which I attempted to make something of, however it was basically a get out and get back in quickly type of visit!
We headed off across some flatlands to where the gradually diminishing daylight was still lighting up the beach at Reynisfjara. It was a struggle to actually get to the beach because the wind was so strong, added to which a coach load of kids arrived just after we did and it was difficult to get clear shots of the rock formations. I loved the way the onshore wind was whipping spray from the breaking waves high and back out to sea. The white foam by the rough sea contrasted well with the dark black beach. The basalt columns out to sea are much photographed and I although I wanted to do something more, the weather made it impossible to do more than simply capture them regardless! There were some spectacular rock shapes and formations which I attempted to make something of, however it was basically a get out and get back in quickly type of visit!
We still weren't finished for the day! Rafn wanted us to see the sun go down at Hjörleifshöfði. He was filling us in on the history of the place as we drove in and explaining that it used to be an island and the sand we were driving on used to be water. We parked the 4x4 in a vast area which stretched way into the horizon; Rafn wanted to show us a couple of caves. The first and larger one of the two had great acoustics which of course we tried out. The second one had a small entrance with another gap above and as the sun went down I was able to capture a lovely image using the two holes as frames.
Our visit to this historic site at an end, we headed towards our night's lodgings at Steig Guest House. However, we still hadn't finished for the day! We decided that it was worth watching for the Aurora, so after three hour's sleep, we were up again and off to darker areas in seach of the elusive dancing lights. Afer a couple of hours our luck wasn't in. Heading back to the guest house we set up our tripods and camera outside just in case. We did see different lighting in the sky however Rafn stressed that what we were seeing was not the Aurora. Then it was off to bed once more; the day really had ended now!
Day 3
After a sumptious breakfast we were off back to the area (unbeknown to us) where we had waited in vain to see if the Aurora appeared the night before. We drove up to the lighthouse at Dyrhólaey in anticipation of a glorious sunrise. It didn't really materialise as thickish cloud had developed, however the views were absolutely stunning from on high. We could see the black beaches, snowy white mountains, bluey white of the glaciers and the different tones and structure of the rock faces. What a way to start the day! We headed back down the mountain as it seemed probable the sun would throw out rays as it rose.
We weren't alone! Several coaches and cars had disgorged their passengers and the place was heaving. There seemed to be photographers everywhere so I headed where there weren't so many! Probably not the best vantage point, however I like my space!
I needn't really have worried though, it wasn't long before the horns were blaring calling people back to their buses and cars. Rafn was happily stretched out on the cliff face taking his own photos and there was no sense of urgency at all for us.
Another part of this area was where boats used to be hauled up from the sea and huge cleats and blocks in high vantage points remain. On our way down from watching waves crash against the rock face we suddenly heard a whoosh and saw spray rise high into the air - there was a blow hole and it was working a treat!
After a sumptious breakfast we were off back to the area (unbeknown to us) where we had waited in vain to see if the Aurora appeared the night before. We drove up to the lighthouse at Dyrhólaey in anticipation of a glorious sunrise. It didn't really materialise as thickish cloud had developed, however the views were absolutely stunning from on high. We could see the black beaches, snowy white mountains, bluey white of the glaciers and the different tones and structure of the rock faces. What a way to start the day! We headed back down the mountain as it seemed probable the sun would throw out rays as it rose.
We weren't alone! Several coaches and cars had disgorged their passengers and the place was heaving. There seemed to be photographers everywhere so I headed where there weren't so many! Probably not the best vantage point, however I like my space!
I needn't really have worried though, it wasn't long before the horns were blaring calling people back to their buses and cars. Rafn was happily stretched out on the cliff face taking his own photos and there was no sense of urgency at all for us.
Another part of this area was where boats used to be hauled up from the sea and huge cleats and blocks in high vantage points remain. On our way down from watching waves crash against the rock face we suddenly heard a whoosh and saw spray rise high into the air - there was a blow hole and it was working a treat!
After eventually leaving Dyrhólaey, the sun was well and truly up and as we travelled along, sparkling on the ice caught our eye. We stopped and found ourselves on a slope filled with broken bits of ice, washed up by the flowing river. It made for a spectacular image as a foreground for the river and mountains. This was also the spot where we all took a photo laying flat on the road; there was a moment of concern when Brian was unaware of a car approaching!
Our next stop took us into a seemingly never ending black landscape. Rafn was looking for a crashed American plane. The area was so vast it would have been easy to miss, however we suddenly came upon it. We were on the black beach at Sólheimasandur and the wreck of a plane just sitting there in the middle of nowhere. We were able to climb in and around what was left as well as take some interesting photos; it was certainly different from anything else we'd photographed up to that point!
Our next stop took us into a seemingly never ending black landscape. Rafn was looking for a crashed American plane. The area was so vast it would have been easy to miss, however we suddenly came upon it. We were on the black beach at Sólheimasandur and the wreck of a plane just sitting there in the middle of nowhere. We were able to climb in and around what was left as well as take some interesting photos; it was certainly different from anything else we'd photographed up to that point!
Leaving the black beach we headed towards whiteness in the form of the glacier at Sólheimajökull. First of all however, we had to cross more black land and negotiate a way through the bus loads of youngsters eagerly getting kitted out with Trax for walking on the ice.
The further into the glacier we went, the whiter it all became, not before we had found our very own ice cave though. The colours were amazing and although we weren't able to get right inside, the experience was as magical as I had imagined. Nature at its best.
We watched as the trails of youngsters started to walk on the glacier, stopping now and again for instruction. They made a colourful splash on the bluey white snow.
Needing to stop to eat and pee, we pulled up just beyond the area where the buses had parked. There was a notice on the Ladies stating that there was a charge although no-one was about. Probably just as well though. One toilet for the loads of youngsters was nowhere near enough and they were in a disgusting state; needs must at times though!
The further into the glacier we went, the whiter it all became, not before we had found our very own ice cave though. The colours were amazing and although we weren't able to get right inside, the experience was as magical as I had imagined. Nature at its best.
We watched as the trails of youngsters started to walk on the glacier, stopping now and again for instruction. They made a colourful splash on the bluey white snow.
Needing to stop to eat and pee, we pulled up just beyond the area where the buses had parked. There was a notice on the Ladies stating that there was a charge although no-one was about. Probably just as well though. One toilet for the loads of youngsters was nowhere near enough and they were in a disgusting state; needs must at times though!
Moving away from the toilets as fast as possible we soon arrived at Skógarfoss Waterfall. The first thing Baz and I did was to head for the steps which went to a viewing platform at the top of the waterfall some 60 metres up. It was impressive and loud and with plenty of spray, however not very easy to photograph to any great effect from on high. Baz and I walked further on from the waterfall and could see the ice flows as they headed towards the fall. We also found our own little icicle display.
Down below again we headed towards the foot of the fall and were treated to the sight of a double rainbow. Rafn had made sure that we had arrived at the right time of day to witness this phenomena. It wasn't that easy to get a photo as the youngsters from the glacier had caught up with us by then and seemed to always be standing around, chatting, just where I wanted to capture an image. The spray added another element to the difficulty, however I managed not only to capture the double rainbow but also a complete one.
Down below again we headed towards the foot of the fall and were treated to the sight of a double rainbow. Rafn had made sure that we had arrived at the right time of day to witness this phenomena. It wasn't that easy to get a photo as the youngsters from the glacier had caught up with us by then and seemed to always be standing around, chatting, just where I wanted to capture an image. The spray added another element to the difficulty, however I managed not only to capture the double rainbow but also a complete one.
Rafn had asked if we wanted to go for a swim and our next destination was to do just that. The setting was absolutely stunning; an ampitheatre created by surrounding snowy mountains at Seljalandslaug! We couldn't see to where we were headed nor what to expect, however as we walked along the river bed, we passed some pipes giving out hot water and so were confident there was a spa nearby!
I had been trying to work out how to maintain some decency whilst putting on and more importantly, taking off my swimsuit and was relieved to see a building with two open doors next to the pool.
It seemed to take me an age to get out of all my cold weather gear and once outside I felt the cold air hit me! The water in the shallow end of the pool was cooler than I anticipated so I swam to the other end. The water coming in from a feed pipe was really hot and probably could burn. The overall temperature of the pool was however, being lowered by water running off the hillside. Still it was refreshing and invigorating and a wonderful experience. I managed to get my camera into the pool to take photos looking out, although the bottom of the pool was slippy and I daren't go too far away from the side.
Walking back to the 4x4 I could fully appreciate the rock formations and colourings we past on the way in.
I had been trying to work out how to maintain some decency whilst putting on and more importantly, taking off my swimsuit and was relieved to see a building with two open doors next to the pool.
It seemed to take me an age to get out of all my cold weather gear and once outside I felt the cold air hit me! The water in the shallow end of the pool was cooler than I anticipated so I swam to the other end. The water coming in from a feed pipe was really hot and probably could burn. The overall temperature of the pool was however, being lowered by water running off the hillside. Still it was refreshing and invigorating and a wonderful experience. I managed to get my camera into the pool to take photos looking out, although the bottom of the pool was slippy and I daren't go too far away from the side.
Walking back to the 4x4 I could fully appreciate the rock formations and colourings we past on the way in.
We were heading back towards Reykjavik and Rafn wanted to take us to another waterfall. The jokes flowed quite freely then as we'd mentioned the unsuccesful search for waterfalls in Spain; it seemed as if Rafn was going to make sure that we didn't miss a single one in Iceland!
Before we arrived at the waterfall however, we stopped to view Eyjafjallajökull the volcano which erupted in 2010 causing travel chaos for a while. A photo of the eruption at that location was on display and it was sobering to see the effects on this place alone.
As we approached the waterfall location, Brian was sure he could see a buffalo ahead. Closer inspection showed it to be a water tank; I think we were all a bit tired and not focussing properly by now! Pulling off the road and driving down a track, we could see a farmstead nestling below the mountains; our destination was just before here.
The waterfall at Írá had few visitors evidently and yet it provided something different to see. The fall of water ended in a bowl-like structure before exiting and forming a river. We were able to get up close to the fall as much of the spray was contained and therefore able to capture the surround colours of the rocks and lichen.
Before we arrived at the waterfall however, we stopped to view Eyjafjallajökull the volcano which erupted in 2010 causing travel chaos for a while. A photo of the eruption at that location was on display and it was sobering to see the effects on this place alone.
As we approached the waterfall location, Brian was sure he could see a buffalo ahead. Closer inspection showed it to be a water tank; I think we were all a bit tired and not focussing properly by now! Pulling off the road and driving down a track, we could see a farmstead nestling below the mountains; our destination was just before here.
The waterfall at Írá had few visitors evidently and yet it provided something different to see. The fall of water ended in a bowl-like structure before exiting and forming a river. We were able to get up close to the fall as much of the spray was contained and therefore able to capture the surround colours of the rocks and lichen.
We weren't yet finished with waterfalls as we were about to find out. Rafn delighted in informing us that we had another one to visit before we could complete our journey back to Reykjavik. Without a great deal of enthusiasm, we alighted from the 4x4 when Rafn came to a stop, having told us that we needed to use wet weather protection for our cameras and to go carefully as it was icy.
Talk about saving the best 'till last! After a bit of a hairy climb down a hill and through a gap in the rock face, the most wonderful sight of a waterfall within a cave confronted us. This was the Gljúfrabú waterfall. There wasn't much room in the cave and it was a continuous job to keep water from the lens, however the sight itself was simply worth standing and looking at, regardless.
Talk about saving the best 'till last! After a bit of a hairy climb down a hill and through a gap in the rock face, the most wonderful sight of a waterfall within a cave confronted us. This was the Gljúfrabú waterfall. There wasn't much room in the cave and it was a continuous job to keep water from the lens, however the sight itself was simply worth standing and looking at, regardless.
As we neared Reykjavik so the sun began to set and we were treated to some spectacular light effects on hot water vapours. The wind had also increased considerably in strength and at one point there was almost a white out as snow was blown across the road. The scenery was spectacular and Rafn was keen to record it as we past. He wound down his window, aimed his camera and shot! We speculated that these particular images could possibly be acclaimed internationally and we'd love to see him explaining the planning and preparation which went into these captures in interview!
The weather and forecasts for an Aurora showing that evening were more favourable than the night before when we thought we had seen at least a hint of a show. After discussion we therefore asked Rafn if he'd take us out of Reykjavik that night in the hope of being more successful.
We agreed to a 9pm meet which gave time for a quick bite to eat and a cup of tea!
Back on the road and heading away from light pollution we scoured the skies looking for the elusive lights. Baz was convinced he could see them as we drove along, however from my side there was nothing. When we stopped after about a half an hour's drive at the lake at Kleifarvatn, Baz said "Look, see there they are" and he was right; I caught my first glimpse of the phenomena I'd been hoping to see - the Aurora Borealis.
As we scrambled to get our cameras and tripods ready, the lights danced brighter and covered the whole of the sky. Rafn was calling for more colour, reds, oranges and yellows as well as the predominant green. We were simply happy to see what we were looking at then!
The wind was strong and gusting. Suddenly, Brian shouted that his camera had fallen and he'd smashed his lens - the only lens he'd brought to Iceland with him. Thankfully, Rafn had a spare lens which fitted Brian's camera in the 4x4, which he lent him. Problem solved for the moment, however Brian was somewhat understandably subdued.
We stayed at this location, taking more and more photos and getting colder as well! Rafn decided to move and look for somewhere more protected from the wind. We stopped beside an icy track at Vigdísarvellir. There was one other person there; I bet he was really glad to see us turning up and polluting the darkness with our headlights!
The Aurora continued to dance merrily above our heads and more in waves rather than long streaks. Colours were more vivid and we kept on clicking away with our cameras. Because of the ice however, we couldn't move around very much and although out of the wind, it was very cold. Brian had packed up and sat in the 4x4 and after several hours of capturing beautiful Aurora images, we decided we had everything we wanted and our beds were calling.
We agreed to a 9pm meet which gave time for a quick bite to eat and a cup of tea!
Back on the road and heading away from light pollution we scoured the skies looking for the elusive lights. Baz was convinced he could see them as we drove along, however from my side there was nothing. When we stopped after about a half an hour's drive at the lake at Kleifarvatn, Baz said "Look, see there they are" and he was right; I caught my first glimpse of the phenomena I'd been hoping to see - the Aurora Borealis.
As we scrambled to get our cameras and tripods ready, the lights danced brighter and covered the whole of the sky. Rafn was calling for more colour, reds, oranges and yellows as well as the predominant green. We were simply happy to see what we were looking at then!
The wind was strong and gusting. Suddenly, Brian shouted that his camera had fallen and he'd smashed his lens - the only lens he'd brought to Iceland with him. Thankfully, Rafn had a spare lens which fitted Brian's camera in the 4x4, which he lent him. Problem solved for the moment, however Brian was somewhat understandably subdued.
We stayed at this location, taking more and more photos and getting colder as well! Rafn decided to move and look for somewhere more protected from the wind. We stopped beside an icy track at Vigdísarvellir. There was one other person there; I bet he was really glad to see us turning up and polluting the darkness with our headlights!
The Aurora continued to dance merrily above our heads and more in waves rather than long streaks. Colours were more vivid and we kept on clicking away with our cameras. Because of the ice however, we couldn't move around very much and although out of the wind, it was very cold. Brian had packed up and sat in the 4x4 and after several hours of capturing beautiful Aurora images, we decided we had everything we wanted and our beds were calling.
Day 4
After two hectic, adventurous and enjoyable days we were happy to take it a bit easier. Brian not least because he now was without a camera and we still had four full days in which to explore Iceland further.
I was still up early enough to capture the glorious colours of the sunrise behind the Perlan on which my bedroom window overlooked.
Our original intention had been to have a guided tour to get a feel for what was on offer and then hire a car to take ourselves out or back to places already visited.
Brian didn't have his driving licence having lost that with his wallet, he also now had no camera and no money. Putting on our thinking caps we came up with a plan for Brian to be involved in all that we wanted to do as well as ensure we all continued to get the most out of our trip.
We decided to ask Rafn to go out with us for another day and forget the option of hiring a car. What had become obvious to us was that it would take us an age to find places and to actually get there as well. The main roads were clear, however anything away from these roads needed local knowledge and careful driving. In Spain it is possible to go off road exploring hoping that a road may lead somewhere and with the assurance of the possibility of being able to turn round even if tracks were narrow. In Iceland the elements made exploration much more difficult and dangerous.
Today however, we would explore the town of Reykjavik on our doostep.
We headed down towards the bay area wanting to have a look in daylight at areas and things we had only seen as darkness fell on our first day. There was a cold wind blowing although the sun was shining. We were able to capture the much photographed Viking boat with the sun just highlighting part of it albeit waiting patiently for numerous other people to pose and take photos in, around and on the structure In the distance we could see reflections in a strange looking building a way ahead of us and slowly made our way towards it.
The building turned out to be the Harpa Theatre and when we realised we could go inside to discover more of its form and function, we were in!
It was warm inside, however what made it even more appealing was the effect created with its construction. Baz, as a structural engineer was in his element and I delighted in watching him and listening to him explain what he saw. Brian was also helpful in pointing out perspective and images that he had noticed.
Reluctantly we eventually left the Theatre and headed towards the Hallgrimskirkja. Baz and I caught a lift up to the viewing platform and could look out over the rooftops of Reykjavik and surrounding area. The views were awesome and so was the wind! It was worth the effort although after that adventure we were all really cold and so headed back to the apartment and warmth!
I learnt today that my laptop was in Lost Property at Gatwick Airport and that I would be able to pick it up on my way back to Spain later in the week. Happy days indeed!
After two hectic, adventurous and enjoyable days we were happy to take it a bit easier. Brian not least because he now was without a camera and we still had four full days in which to explore Iceland further.
I was still up early enough to capture the glorious colours of the sunrise behind the Perlan on which my bedroom window overlooked.
Our original intention had been to have a guided tour to get a feel for what was on offer and then hire a car to take ourselves out or back to places already visited.
Brian didn't have his driving licence having lost that with his wallet, he also now had no camera and no money. Putting on our thinking caps we came up with a plan for Brian to be involved in all that we wanted to do as well as ensure we all continued to get the most out of our trip.
We decided to ask Rafn to go out with us for another day and forget the option of hiring a car. What had become obvious to us was that it would take us an age to find places and to actually get there as well. The main roads were clear, however anything away from these roads needed local knowledge and careful driving. In Spain it is possible to go off road exploring hoping that a road may lead somewhere and with the assurance of the possibility of being able to turn round even if tracks were narrow. In Iceland the elements made exploration much more difficult and dangerous.
Today however, we would explore the town of Reykjavik on our doostep.
We headed down towards the bay area wanting to have a look in daylight at areas and things we had only seen as darkness fell on our first day. There was a cold wind blowing although the sun was shining. We were able to capture the much photographed Viking boat with the sun just highlighting part of it albeit waiting patiently for numerous other people to pose and take photos in, around and on the structure In the distance we could see reflections in a strange looking building a way ahead of us and slowly made our way towards it.
The building turned out to be the Harpa Theatre and when we realised we could go inside to discover more of its form and function, we were in!
It was warm inside, however what made it even more appealing was the effect created with its construction. Baz, as a structural engineer was in his element and I delighted in watching him and listening to him explain what he saw. Brian was also helpful in pointing out perspective and images that he had noticed.
Reluctantly we eventually left the Theatre and headed towards the Hallgrimskirkja. Baz and I caught a lift up to the viewing platform and could look out over the rooftops of Reykjavik and surrounding area. The views were awesome and so was the wind! It was worth the effort although after that adventure we were all really cold and so headed back to the apartment and warmth!
I learnt today that my laptop was in Lost Property at Gatwick Airport and that I would be able to pick it up on my way back to Spain later in the week. Happy days indeed!
Day 5
We decided to go for it and be true tourists by visiting the Blue Lagoon. We'd held back because of the cost of going and had also had a swim in warm waters when out with Rafn, however there wasn't much enthusiasm for walking out and about in Reykjavik again so the Blue Lagoon it was!
We organised it online and then set about sorting out bus travel to get there. It was simple really although the bus arrived half an hour after the time given and we were then taken to another pick up point and transferred onto another bus.
Eventually we arrived at the Lagoon however, and it was well organised with wrist bands which acted as scanners to lock and unlock lockers and every manner of accessory available to purchase if so desired.
Leaving the changing rooms and going outside to the lagoon was a bit of a shock to the system, however the water was really warm and we were quickly submerged and relishing it. There were treatments available to apply to skin all over the lagoon and of course we tried it! There were a few red faces about so I didn't keep my lotion on for long; it felt a bit rough when I applied it to my face.
We made our way to the deeper part of the lagoon which was near to where the hot water actually entered. It was lovely sitting on submerged rocks letting this warm, soft water bubble around.
I decided to go and get my camera and take some photos from within the lagoon. Going through the process of unlocking my locker extracting my camera and then relocking it was straighforward and then I realised I needed my specs too. A repeat of the process then had to take place! I eventually emerged and very slowly and deliberately re-entered the warm water with my camera held high. The bottom of the lagoon was slippy and I made my way to the deeper part without trouble. My specs however, were a problem. I had difficulty keeping them out of the water and couldn't keep them on as I needed to negotiate the lagoon and everything in it with care. I was happy to get out again after I'd taken a number of photos and put my camera safely back in the locker together with my wet specs! The venture although a bit stressful, was successful and I captured some lovely images of the sun behind the hot vapours of the lagoon.
We decided to go for it and be true tourists by visiting the Blue Lagoon. We'd held back because of the cost of going and had also had a swim in warm waters when out with Rafn, however there wasn't much enthusiasm for walking out and about in Reykjavik again so the Blue Lagoon it was!
We organised it online and then set about sorting out bus travel to get there. It was simple really although the bus arrived half an hour after the time given and we were then taken to another pick up point and transferred onto another bus.
Eventually we arrived at the Lagoon however, and it was well organised with wrist bands which acted as scanners to lock and unlock lockers and every manner of accessory available to purchase if so desired.
Leaving the changing rooms and going outside to the lagoon was a bit of a shock to the system, however the water was really warm and we were quickly submerged and relishing it. There were treatments available to apply to skin all over the lagoon and of course we tried it! There were a few red faces about so I didn't keep my lotion on for long; it felt a bit rough when I applied it to my face.
We made our way to the deeper part of the lagoon which was near to where the hot water actually entered. It was lovely sitting on submerged rocks letting this warm, soft water bubble around.
I decided to go and get my camera and take some photos from within the lagoon. Going through the process of unlocking my locker extracting my camera and then relocking it was straighforward and then I realised I needed my specs too. A repeat of the process then had to take place! I eventually emerged and very slowly and deliberately re-entered the warm water with my camera held high. The bottom of the lagoon was slippy and I made my way to the deeper part without trouble. My specs however, were a problem. I had difficulty keeping them out of the water and couldn't keep them on as I needed to negotiate the lagoon and everything in it with care. I was happy to get out again after I'd taken a number of photos and put my camera safely back in the locker together with my wet specs! The venture although a bit stressful, was successful and I captured some lovely images of the sun behind the hot vapours of the lagoon.
Later that evening Baz and I decided to go out and photograph some of the night lights of Reykjavik. Heading once again towards the bay area, it wasn't long before we were on our way to the Harpa Theatre. It really is such a striking building both during the day as well as night. There were two pools in front of the main entrance and I set up my camera and tripod to capture the changing lights in the building as well as reflections.
Day 6
I have noticed a marked reluctance to get on and upload photos from today as well as write about the adventures which took place. I think it's because of all the remarkable experiences we had, those on this day were more vivid and memorable. It's also the last day we spent enjoying the company of Rafn. He picked us up from the apartment at 8am! We were therefore on the road away from any light pollution when the sunrise started and were able to see the crescent moon, as well as Jupiter highlighted in the sunrise colours over Mountain Esja.
The sunrise colours developed and were simply too spectacular to carry on driving. We stopped and Rafn said to go down to the river - we didn't even realise there was one nearby as it was out of sight. The setting was perfect though when we reached it. I felt it was one of the best photos I'd taken as it had all the elements for a good photo. On reflection however, a slight move to the right may have made it a great photo!
We continued further on, stopping to look over the lake at Þingvallavatn as the sun rose higher in the sky. We were about to arrive at the frozen waterfall Öxarárfoss, an unimaginable beautiful sight. It was so unexpected as well and it was difficult to know where to start to take photos. I simply loved the patterns, colours and structures created by the water as it froze and captured my favourite image of all here; a diamond-like drop of water containing so many different colours. We could have stayed here much longer, however other treats awaited.
I have noticed a marked reluctance to get on and upload photos from today as well as write about the adventures which took place. I think it's because of all the remarkable experiences we had, those on this day were more vivid and memorable. It's also the last day we spent enjoying the company of Rafn. He picked us up from the apartment at 8am! We were therefore on the road away from any light pollution when the sunrise started and were able to see the crescent moon, as well as Jupiter highlighted in the sunrise colours over Mountain Esja.
The sunrise colours developed and were simply too spectacular to carry on driving. We stopped and Rafn said to go down to the river - we didn't even realise there was one nearby as it was out of sight. The setting was perfect though when we reached it. I felt it was one of the best photos I'd taken as it had all the elements for a good photo. On reflection however, a slight move to the right may have made it a great photo!
We continued further on, stopping to look over the lake at Þingvallavatn as the sun rose higher in the sky. We were about to arrive at the frozen waterfall Öxarárfoss, an unimaginable beautiful sight. It was so unexpected as well and it was difficult to know where to start to take photos. I simply loved the patterns, colours and structures created by the water as it froze and captured my favourite image of all here; a diamond-like drop of water containing so many different colours. We could have stayed here much longer, however other treats awaited.
Our next delight awaited us at Gullfoss. A beautiful waterfall which Brian had visited years earlier in summer months. Today however, it didn't feel anything other than extremely cold as a strong wind brought tears to my eyes and made focusing all but impossible. We started off on high looking down at the magnificant vista below and quickly walked down to a lower level after taking a few photos. Lower down it wasn't much better and we had hoped to get down to the actual river, however the strong wind was whipping up spray really high and the path had become dangerous as the spray immedietly froze; it was therefore closed.
With car heating going full blast and gradually thawing us out, we headed towards a warmer place, a geothermal Geysir. Just seeing the steam rising made us feel instantly warmer although we did also purchase cups of tea to complete the reheating process.
I'd never given much thought to the process of the Geysir blowing and the first blast caught me by surprise. Rafn kept saying to watch people standing near to the bubble to get a better idea of when it was likely to blow. What bubble, I wondered? Well, working my way round further I saw what he meant!
How awesome was that! I missed photographing it the first couple of times it blew because I just wanted to watch it. Then I was with everyone else, waiting in anticipation as the Geysir played with us all. Seemingly absolutely at the point of bursting several times, it would rise and then...........and then...........all the water would fall back into the hole. Then it would rise again and with a huge whoosh, blow! I loved it.
I'd never given much thought to the process of the Geysir blowing and the first blast caught me by surprise. Rafn kept saying to watch people standing near to the bubble to get a better idea of when it was likely to blow. What bubble, I wondered? Well, working my way round further I saw what he meant!
How awesome was that! I missed photographing it the first couple of times it blew because I just wanted to watch it. Then I was with everyone else, waiting in anticipation as the Geysir played with us all. Seemingly absolutely at the point of bursting several times, it would rise and then...........and then...........all the water would fall back into the hole. Then it would rise again and with a huge whoosh, blow! I loved it.
I really thought that nothing more would top the day after the Geysir visit; what did I know though! Rafn pulled off the road into a small, empty car park. We walked uphill a little and when I looked down, I couldn't believe my eyes - it was a huge crater, the extinct volcano Kerið. Way down in the bottom there was a layer of ice. At first it didn't look as if there was any possibility of getting down, plenty of conservation work had been done and paths seemed restricted. Further investigation showed a track down however, so Baz and I were on our way!
I simply loved the blocks of ice randomly strewn across the bottom. Colours reflected everywhere through the ice from the blue sky above, the sunshine and the minerals in the volcano itself. There were a strange couple of items at the bottom of the crater however, a bench seat and a rusty old milk churn!
I simply loved the blocks of ice randomly strewn across the bottom. Colours reflected everywhere through the ice from the blue sky above, the sunshine and the minerals in the volcano itself. There were a strange couple of items at the bottom of the crater however, a bench seat and a rusty old milk churn!
Leaving the crater and thinking about the awesome sights of that day as Rafn drove along, I was taken by surprise when we suddenly turned off the road and on to a black beach. It is called Óseyrartangi and apparently well known as a wind surfing place.
I wasn't really sure what we were going to look at, however when we left the car and started to walk towards the sea, there was no doubt of what I would be taking images; the waves were huge and as they rose to break, the most beautiful opaque green colours were visible. The spray blowing backwards over the waves completed a lovely scene. It appears that on this beach, as Rafn was taking photos, each of us also took a photo of him!
I wasn't really sure what we were going to look at, however when we left the car and started to walk towards the sea, there was no doubt of what I would be taking images; the waves were huge and as they rose to break, the most beautiful opaque green colours were visible. The spray blowing backwards over the waves completed a lovely scene. It appears that on this beach, as Rafn was taking photos, each of us also took a photo of him!
Our next stop was at the Raufarholshellir lava tube cave. Rafn told us that a Kevin Costner movie was filmed in part at this location and he had paid for some steps to be built. On arriving there and making our way very carefully to the entrance, it was clear that it wasn't going to be just a simple jaunt. As I had Trax under my boots, I followed Rafn down the icy slope at the entrance. Rafn wasn't keen to continue as it was slippery, however he encouraged me to carry on and Baz followed. When I suggested that I may well be able to get down, however I wasn't sure about getting back out again, Rafn assured me there was a rope in the 4x4 so he could haul me out. As he was laughing as he made this comment I wasn't absolutely sure that he was offering a rescue plan!
Baz and I slowly made our way deeper into the cave. I stopped to take some photos and then continued only to find Baz's camera on his tripod but no Baz in sight! I shouted and didn't hear a reply so carried on further in wondering where on earth he was. I eventually found him about 100m further in, absolutely fascinated by the sights on offer in this unique lava cave. We spent some time trying to capture the beauty of the clear ice which had formed on the walls by shining a small light. The images didn't do the reality justice and the cave is a must for further exploration on another visit.
Baz and I slowly made our way deeper into the cave. I stopped to take some photos and then continued only to find Baz's camera on his tripod but no Baz in sight! I shouted and didn't hear a reply so carried on further in wondering where on earth he was. I eventually found him about 100m further in, absolutely fascinated by the sights on offer in this unique lava cave. We spent some time trying to capture the beauty of the clear ice which had formed on the walls by shining a small light. The images didn't do the reality justice and the cave is a must for further exploration on another visit.
Leaving Raufarholshellir Rafn turned on to a completely iced over road. We were slipping and sliding along although Rafn was totally relaxed and kept mentioning about "having fun". He'd brought us to Húsfellsbruniin in the Highlands just outside Reykjavik. It was a really remote area and we noticed a tall light seemingly in the middle of nowhere and for no apparent reason. Rafn confirmed that it was a guide for anyone out in the area as it was so easy to get lost.
As we made our way through the ice and eventually onto a cleared road, we could see the lights of Reykjavik glinting in the distance, not too far away. Anticipating our arrival back at the apartment anytime soon, we were all taken by surprise as Rafn took a slip road and drove us to what looked like a sort of market from a distance.
As we neared however, Rafn began to laugh and we began to smell. Rafn said it was this odour he wanted us to remember as one of the distinctive features of Iceland. Closer inspection of the "stalls" showed thousands of gutted fish, drying in the cold air. The smell was unbelievable and it was impossible to even hazard a guess at the number of fish hanging there. Whilst we were taking photos, a group of workers in a lorry arrived to hang up yet more and Rafn explained how it was big export business for Iceland. It sort of felt like we wouldn't be looking to eat any fish dishes for a while after that experience!
As we neared however, Rafn began to laugh and we began to smell. Rafn said it was this odour he wanted us to remember as one of the distinctive features of Iceland. Closer inspection of the "stalls" showed thousands of gutted fish, drying in the cold air. The smell was unbelievable and it was impossible to even hazard a guess at the number of fish hanging there. Whilst we were taking photos, a group of workers in a lorry arrived to hang up yet more and Rafn explained how it was big export business for Iceland. It sort of felt like we wouldn't be looking to eat any fish dishes for a while after that experience!
The fish drying area really was our last stop and it wasn't long before we pulled up in front of our apartment. It was time to say a fond farewell to Rafn and with a promise that it wouldn't be the last time we would meet.
Day 7
It really did have the end of a holiday feel. We had some administrative stuff to sort out such as getting our boarding passes printed off and trying to find out how to organise our bus for transport to the airport. Turned out that we needed to be picked up at 4:30am; another reason why nothing much was going to set this day alight.
I decided that I was going to get up early anyway and catch the rising sun. I wanted to walk in a different direction from that which we'd covered previously and so found myself wandering into an industrial area and all the hustle and bustle first thing in the morning. Finding my way out and alongside a main road, I was able to capture reflections of the colours as the sun rose in a prominent building we could see from the apartment. The shape of this building as I found my way closer was interesting as the taller part presented a triangle effect attached to the more frontal approach of buildings either side.
Inevitably I guess, I found myself once again back at the bay area and it was here that I sat and watched the sunrise in all its glory. Colours changing by the second and lighting up different parts of the bay and the mountains behind.
I made my way back to the apartment and some breakfast. We all then went out to complete the administrative tasks and then Baz and I went out for one last photo shoot. We'd passed an area several times which had the appearance of conversion to skating rinks. As it was obviously a sports area in warmer months, there was the possibility of some photos with a difference.
We didn't find much of interest there, however we did capture some great graffiti images.
We'd decided to go out to eat for our last evening and had it in mind to try the unusual soup within a big bread roll. When we arrived at the restaurant we'd earmarked however, it was full so we went to another nearby and settled for a salad!!
On the way back to the apartment there was one last surprise in store. We could see the Aurora In Reykjavik! Mind blowing to think that with all that light pollution it was still visible. It must have been awesome out in the mountains.
It really did have the end of a holiday feel. We had some administrative stuff to sort out such as getting our boarding passes printed off and trying to find out how to organise our bus for transport to the airport. Turned out that we needed to be picked up at 4:30am; another reason why nothing much was going to set this day alight.
I decided that I was going to get up early anyway and catch the rising sun. I wanted to walk in a different direction from that which we'd covered previously and so found myself wandering into an industrial area and all the hustle and bustle first thing in the morning. Finding my way out and alongside a main road, I was able to capture reflections of the colours as the sun rose in a prominent building we could see from the apartment. The shape of this building as I found my way closer was interesting as the taller part presented a triangle effect attached to the more frontal approach of buildings either side.
Inevitably I guess, I found myself once again back at the bay area and it was here that I sat and watched the sunrise in all its glory. Colours changing by the second and lighting up different parts of the bay and the mountains behind.
I made my way back to the apartment and some breakfast. We all then went out to complete the administrative tasks and then Baz and I went out for one last photo shoot. We'd passed an area several times which had the appearance of conversion to skating rinks. As it was obviously a sports area in warmer months, there was the possibility of some photos with a difference.
We didn't find much of interest there, however we did capture some great graffiti images.
We'd decided to go out to eat for our last evening and had it in mind to try the unusual soup within a big bread roll. When we arrived at the restaurant we'd earmarked however, it was full so we went to another nearby and settled for a salad!!
On the way back to the apartment there was one last surprise in store. We could see the Aurora In Reykjavik! Mind blowing to think that with all that light pollution it was still visible. It must have been awesome out in the mountains.
Day 8
After a cold, early morning wait to be picked up we were eventually on our way to the airport at Keflavik. Arriving just before 6am the place was heaving with flights seemingly off to all parts of the globe. Rafn had said that tourism had taken off and risen from 2/300,000 people per year to over one and a half million now. This significant rise is also having an impact on the environment in this beautiful country and measures are already being put into place to make charges in certain areas to cope with management costs. Nothing is for free forever I guess; I am happy that we came before things become too organised and more touristy.
We had sorted our seating arrangements on the plane so that we each had a window seat. It meant that Baz and I could occupy ourselves taking photos of the last amazing sunrise which was taking place as we took off. We were also able to see the coastline looking back towards Reykjavik as well as the mountains and ice fields of the highland area. Farewell Iceland; we most certainly want to return.
After a cold, early morning wait to be picked up we were eventually on our way to the airport at Keflavik. Arriving just before 6am the place was heaving with flights seemingly off to all parts of the globe. Rafn had said that tourism had taken off and risen from 2/300,000 people per year to over one and a half million now. This significant rise is also having an impact on the environment in this beautiful country and measures are already being put into place to make charges in certain areas to cope with management costs. Nothing is for free forever I guess; I am happy that we came before things become too organised and more touristy.
We had sorted our seating arrangements on the plane so that we each had a window seat. It meant that Baz and I could occupy ourselves taking photos of the last amazing sunrise which was taking place as we took off. We were also able to see the coastline looking back towards Reykjavik as well as the mountains and ice fields of the highland area. Farewell Iceland; we most certainly want to return.