The Ice Hotel & Second coming of the Aurora
Beginnings
I'd never heard of the Ice Hotel until last year. A quick search turned up videos of an awesome project in the far north of Sweden; we were hooked!
After contacting one of the specialist companies involved in trips to projects in the Arctic, we quickly decided to go for it and booked our stay at the Ice Hotel from Wednesday 26th February until Saturday March 2nd. Our first night was to be spent in the actual Ice Hotel and the two following nights in a chalet alongside the Ice Hotel. We also booked a few trips out, to make sure we made the most of our time in the area.
Journey
We booked our direct flights with SAS a Scandinavian Airline on the basis that they should know how to fly in snow and icy conditions. The first leg of our journey took us from Malaga to Stockholm, a 4½ hour flight which was uneventful and passed quickly. On arrival in Stockholm we found the courtesy bus stop and waited to be taken directly to our hotel. Digital thermometers showed the temperature at 5⁰C, way above the norm for this time of year. We'd debated when to put on our thermals and were glad with our decision to change once at the hotel!
A meal at the hotel in the evening, together with a beer, reminded us that the cost of living in Sweden was much higher than in Spain! However, we were comfortable, warm and looking forward to the next leg of our trip the following morning which would take us from Stockholm and a further 1½ hours into the Arctic Circle.
Our destination was Kiruna airport. There was thick cloud cover initially, however and as we made our approach, the cloud disappeared and we could see below; it looked cold. Although there were ice flows, there seemed to be a lot less snow than we had anticipated. We could see the landing strip as we circled to line up and land; there wasn't much else to see in the seemingly desolate landscape.
Formalities on landing were fairly informal with one small arrival hall and luggage belt. We collected our luggage and went outside to look for our pre-arranged transport. It turned out to be a taxi which we shared with another couple heading to the Ice Hotel as well.
Our taxi driver confirmed that the weather we were experiencing was unseasonable and indeed the previous week there had been a temperature recorded of -35⁰ in Kiruna. Hopefully we had chosen the right time for our adventure.
After half an hour we arrived at the main Reception of the Ice Hotel. We'd decided that our first night would be spent in the Ice Hotel itself which is rebuilt every winter, followed by a further two nights in a warm chalet. We'd originally booked one of the standard rooms for our night in the Ice Hotel, however were given the opportunity to upgrade. With a couple of hours to fill before we could book in and find out which was to be our room for the night we decided to explore.
I'd never heard of the Ice Hotel until last year. A quick search turned up videos of an awesome project in the far north of Sweden; we were hooked!
After contacting one of the specialist companies involved in trips to projects in the Arctic, we quickly decided to go for it and booked our stay at the Ice Hotel from Wednesday 26th February until Saturday March 2nd. Our first night was to be spent in the actual Ice Hotel and the two following nights in a chalet alongside the Ice Hotel. We also booked a few trips out, to make sure we made the most of our time in the area.
Journey
We booked our direct flights with SAS a Scandinavian Airline on the basis that they should know how to fly in snow and icy conditions. The first leg of our journey took us from Malaga to Stockholm, a 4½ hour flight which was uneventful and passed quickly. On arrival in Stockholm we found the courtesy bus stop and waited to be taken directly to our hotel. Digital thermometers showed the temperature at 5⁰C, way above the norm for this time of year. We'd debated when to put on our thermals and were glad with our decision to change once at the hotel!
A meal at the hotel in the evening, together with a beer, reminded us that the cost of living in Sweden was much higher than in Spain! However, we were comfortable, warm and looking forward to the next leg of our trip the following morning which would take us from Stockholm and a further 1½ hours into the Arctic Circle.
Our destination was Kiruna airport. There was thick cloud cover initially, however and as we made our approach, the cloud disappeared and we could see below; it looked cold. Although there were ice flows, there seemed to be a lot less snow than we had anticipated. We could see the landing strip as we circled to line up and land; there wasn't much else to see in the seemingly desolate landscape.
Formalities on landing were fairly informal with one small arrival hall and luggage belt. We collected our luggage and went outside to look for our pre-arranged transport. It turned out to be a taxi which we shared with another couple heading to the Ice Hotel as well.
Our taxi driver confirmed that the weather we were experiencing was unseasonable and indeed the previous week there had been a temperature recorded of -35⁰ in Kiruna. Hopefully we had chosen the right time for our adventure.
After half an hour we arrived at the main Reception of the Ice Hotel. We'd decided that our first night would be spent in the Ice Hotel itself which is rebuilt every winter, followed by a further two nights in a warm chalet. We'd originally booked one of the standard rooms for our night in the Ice Hotel, however were given the opportunity to upgrade. With a couple of hours to fill before we could book in and find out which was to be our room for the night we decided to explore.
The Ice Hotel
We were issued with passes and made our way to the main entrance of the Ice Hotel. The doors were lined with reindeer skins and the handles were antlers! When a steward opened the doors and we walked inside, we had no idea what to expect. .
It was breathtaking from the start, not only because it was -5⁰, the sculptures inside the entrance were simply amazing.
We wandered around from room to room. Each had its own entrance with a curtain door. As we walked into each room, we were confronted by an icy mist to which our eyes had to adjust before we could see details of the ice sculptures and layout. Each room brought exclamations as we discovered exquisite details. It was absolutely stunning. There was too much to take in on our first visit and as we didn't want to miss anything, we decided to have a wander outside and return when we knew which room we'd be sleeping in that night.
We were issued with passes and made our way to the main entrance of the Ice Hotel. The doors were lined with reindeer skins and the handles were antlers! When a steward opened the doors and we walked inside, we had no idea what to expect. .
It was breathtaking from the start, not only because it was -5⁰, the sculptures inside the entrance were simply amazing.
We wandered around from room to room. Each had its own entrance with a curtain door. As we walked into each room, we were confronted by an icy mist to which our eyes had to adjust before we could see details of the ice sculptures and layout. Each room brought exclamations as we discovered exquisite details. It was absolutely stunning. There was too much to take in on our first visit and as we didn't want to miss anything, we decided to have a wander outside and return when we knew which room we'd be sleeping in that night.
Out and About
There were kick sleds laying around, so we decided to have a go on one down a small slope. Chris took the steering position. I hopped on, then off, as my rucksack was in the way. As I started to take it off, Chris went off down the slope and after gathering speed, the sled went one way, Chris the other. He did a magnificent roll and stood up, unhurt apart from his pride! A Finnish friend told me that you steer with body movement, a skill obviously he still has to acquire!
It was possible to hire a snowmobile, which many of the locals use for every day transport, however after the sled experience, I was thankful we hadn't put that on our list of items to experience.
We watched as the sun went down and then went to find out the details of our overnight stay in the Ice Hotel.
There were kick sleds laying around, so we decided to have a go on one down a small slope. Chris took the steering position. I hopped on, then off, as my rucksack was in the way. As I started to take it off, Chris went off down the slope and after gathering speed, the sled went one way, Chris the other. He did a magnificent roll and stood up, unhurt apart from his pride! A Finnish friend told me that you steer with body movement, a skill obviously he still has to acquire!
It was possible to hire a snowmobile, which many of the locals use for every day transport, however after the sled experience, I was thankful we hadn't put that on our list of items to experience.
We watched as the sun went down and then went to find out the details of our overnight stay in the Ice Hotel.
The Ice Hotel Experience
We gathered outside the hotel with other guests who were to spend the night in an Ice Room. The first instruction was how to react in case of fire; there are in fact fire extinguishers in the hotel - health and safety compliant obviously!
Then we learnt how to get into our sleeping bag and liner in double quick time as the ambient temperature inside was -5⁰. We were also shown the night door which would enable trips inside to the loos and warm reception area from the Ice Hotel, if need be. The suggested method for using this route was to wrap the sleeping bag over the shoulders and make a run for it! Then we were ready. An experience like no other awaited and we were like kids as nervous giggles ensued!
Our upgraded room was “Dancing Auroras”, created by Emilie Steele & Sebastian Dell’Uva from Sweden. We were delighted and very happy that we'd taken the opportunity to spend our night in a suite which was more spacious and individual. It was a beautiful room with sensitive lighting. We felt privileged. It was still early however, and as we had learned we would be awoken with a hot blueberry drink between 7 and 7.30am, we wanted to try and make sure we completed our night and were still there at that time.
It was time to go and get kitted out with the warm snow suits, hats, gloves and boots. It felt a bit like zombies clumping around once we'd put the clothing on, however we were warm and that was all that mattered.
It was unlikely that we'd be able to see the Aurora whilst we waited for a suitable time to go to bed. We'd checked the forecast and although the Aurora was likely to be strong, we wouldn't see any of it because of cloud cover.
We headed to the Ice Bar instead!
It was another amazing experience as whisky on ice took on a whole new meaning. I had a hot chocolate with a peppermint liquor. It was delicious, however didn't last long as I wanted to drink it hot. It was interesting to see the clothing attire some people wore. I think they'd forgotten that it was an Ice Bar and were simply thinking of having a drink; they didn't stay long!
There were so many patterns in the ice as well as the sculptures and creations to make the place unique. The beat of music encouraged movement which helped in turn to keep us warm.
Leaving the Ice Bar we walked to the reception area in falling snow. We relaxed and warmed both ourselves and our sleeping bags before retiring to our room for the night.
We gathered outside the hotel with other guests who were to spend the night in an Ice Room. The first instruction was how to react in case of fire; there are in fact fire extinguishers in the hotel - health and safety compliant obviously!
Then we learnt how to get into our sleeping bag and liner in double quick time as the ambient temperature inside was -5⁰. We were also shown the night door which would enable trips inside to the loos and warm reception area from the Ice Hotel, if need be. The suggested method for using this route was to wrap the sleeping bag over the shoulders and make a run for it! Then we were ready. An experience like no other awaited and we were like kids as nervous giggles ensued!
Our upgraded room was “Dancing Auroras”, created by Emilie Steele & Sebastian Dell’Uva from Sweden. We were delighted and very happy that we'd taken the opportunity to spend our night in a suite which was more spacious and individual. It was a beautiful room with sensitive lighting. We felt privileged. It was still early however, and as we had learned we would be awoken with a hot blueberry drink between 7 and 7.30am, we wanted to try and make sure we completed our night and were still there at that time.
It was time to go and get kitted out with the warm snow suits, hats, gloves and boots. It felt a bit like zombies clumping around once we'd put the clothing on, however we were warm and that was all that mattered.
It was unlikely that we'd be able to see the Aurora whilst we waited for a suitable time to go to bed. We'd checked the forecast and although the Aurora was likely to be strong, we wouldn't see any of it because of cloud cover.
We headed to the Ice Bar instead!
It was another amazing experience as whisky on ice took on a whole new meaning. I had a hot chocolate with a peppermint liquor. It was delicious, however didn't last long as I wanted to drink it hot. It was interesting to see the clothing attire some people wore. I think they'd forgotten that it was an Ice Bar and were simply thinking of having a drink; they didn't stay long!
There were so many patterns in the ice as well as the sculptures and creations to make the place unique. The beat of music encouraged movement which helped in turn to keep us warm.
Leaving the Ice Bar we walked to the reception area in falling snow. We relaxed and warmed both ourselves and our sleeping bags before retiring to our room for the night.
To sleep or not to sleep!
Leaving our clothes in the locker room allocated to us just off reception, we put on our snow suit gear over thermals and stepped out into the night air. Quickly reaching the night door, we entered the Ice Hotel and headed to our room. Getting out of the suits, into the liner and thence into the sleeping bag was done in double quick time and we lay down on our beds waiting to warm up. Not only did we warm up, we began to get too warm! Eventually however, we settled down and waited for sleep to come. The bag liner was troublesome as we tossed and turned. Laying on it rather than in it, helped. Sleep eluded us. We were warm, the bed was comfortable enough and all was still and quiet. The possibility of having to get up some time in the night however, weighed heavily! Chris was the first to succumb and try out the 'sleeping bag over the shoulder method'. He made a run for it and was back in no time. It was doable. We dozed in fits and starts. It was surreal and impossible to pretend otherwise. At 5am I succumbed and we both headed for the warm reception area. This time however, we put on our snow suits and folded over our sleeping bags to retain warmth.
Before heading back to complete our night in the Ice Hotel, we warmed up with a hot chocolate. Then it was back to bed in the hope that now we'd sleep until awoken with our blueberry drink. We did sleep a little, however for the first time, the cold began to seep into our bodies. However, we didn't have too long to go until our hot drinks arrived. The lady who brought our drinks received a very warm welcome! We had done it and now it was time to leave our cold abode and head for the warmth of reception and thence to a chalet for a couple of nights.
Leaving our clothes in the locker room allocated to us just off reception, we put on our snow suit gear over thermals and stepped out into the night air. Quickly reaching the night door, we entered the Ice Hotel and headed to our room. Getting out of the suits, into the liner and thence into the sleeping bag was done in double quick time and we lay down on our beds waiting to warm up. Not only did we warm up, we began to get too warm! Eventually however, we settled down and waited for sleep to come. The bag liner was troublesome as we tossed and turned. Laying on it rather than in it, helped. Sleep eluded us. We were warm, the bed was comfortable enough and all was still and quiet. The possibility of having to get up some time in the night however, weighed heavily! Chris was the first to succumb and try out the 'sleeping bag over the shoulder method'. He made a run for it and was back in no time. It was doable. We dozed in fits and starts. It was surreal and impossible to pretend otherwise. At 5am I succumbed and we both headed for the warm reception area. This time however, we put on our snow suits and folded over our sleeping bags to retain warmth.
Before heading back to complete our night in the Ice Hotel, we warmed up with a hot chocolate. Then it was back to bed in the hope that now we'd sleep until awoken with our blueberry drink. We did sleep a little, however for the first time, the cold began to seep into our bodies. However, we didn't have too long to go until our hot drinks arrived. The lady who brought our drinks received a very warm welcome! We had done it and now it was time to leave our cold abode and head for the warmth of reception and thence to a chalet for a couple of nights.
The Day After
Heading to the restaurant for breakfast, it was possible to see those of us who had spent the night in an Ice Room! We were the bleary eyed ones basking in a sense of euphoria! The Swedish food was much to our liking and included a lot of smoked items and we were hungry after the long night.
As we were unable to check into our warm chalet until later in the day, we decided to investigate our surroundings further. We'd watched a video of how the Ice Hotel was built each year and wandering around, came across the formwork for the arches and support structure, stacked and ready for use next year. The blocks to build the Ice Hotel are cut when the ice is at its thickest and stored until ready to use. Blocks are cut from the River Torne. We could see an area sectioned off and cleared of snow. This was the area from which the blocks would be cut. We learnt that there's a lot of work in maintaining this area to ensure the best possible quality of ice to harvest. It's possible to create blocks artificially, however we were told that the locals think the effort is worthwhile "For us the natural beauty and unique story of each individual block of ice provides inspiration that can never be found in artificial ice".
Chatting to some workmen, we learnt that the ice cutting would take place a couple of days after we left. It was a shame we wouldn't be there to witness the event as it was accompanied by ritual celebrations, preparations for which were already underway..
Dog Sled Ride
We had booked various activities and the dog sled ride was our first. Assembling at the meeting point, were quite a few other people who wanted to enjoy such an experience. We were allocated a sled and found our travelling companions would be an elderly Swedish lady and her two granddaughters. The sled driver was a French lady from Normandy who also worked with horses in France when not guiding dog sleds. She was really interesting to chat to as we went along and it was clear she knew her dogs individually. She explained the characters of each of the dogs in her team and it was quite funny to watch the older ones send messages to her with their looks! The dogs were Samoyed Husky mix and bred especially for this part of the world. They were happy for us to get close to them, however we also saw the aggressive side of their nature. Each had their position in the team because of their personality and strength. They were full of energy each time we set off and it felt as if we were flying at times!
Conditions were just about perfect we were told. The snow which had fallen during the night, provided just the right amount of softness on top of the ice to enable the runners to glide. We sat on the sled in order of height and weight; Chris at the back, then me followed by the Swedish family. We slotted in between each others legs with feet on the runners.
Speeding through forested areas we were especially happy to have an experienced driver in charge as we sped around bends and up and over bumps. Half way into our trip we came to a halt beside a teepee. The dogs sank into the snow, some licking it for a drink, others rolling around, maybe to cool off. Temperatures were still unusually high we were told and the dogs were feeling the warmer temperatures! Getting off the sled took much longer than getting on. Hips and thighs had been working hard and now resisted the need to change stance and get upright! We stiffly alighted the sled and gently reintroduced our legs to a walking stance.
Inside the teepee a fire had been lit and kettles of coffee on the go. We swopped stories with other sled riders whilst drinking our hot coffee and eating the sweet cakes provided. Then it was back on our sleds in our familiar positions and homeward bound.
Arriving back at the Ice Hotel, we watched as the dogs eagerly jumped into their respective places in the cages of the dog transporter. Some needed a helping hand to jump up after the exertions, however all seemed very happy to have had the exercise. As for us, exhilarated is the only way to describe how we felt!
We had booked various activities and the dog sled ride was our first. Assembling at the meeting point, were quite a few other people who wanted to enjoy such an experience. We were allocated a sled and found our travelling companions would be an elderly Swedish lady and her two granddaughters. The sled driver was a French lady from Normandy who also worked with horses in France when not guiding dog sleds. She was really interesting to chat to as we went along and it was clear she knew her dogs individually. She explained the characters of each of the dogs in her team and it was quite funny to watch the older ones send messages to her with their looks! The dogs were Samoyed Husky mix and bred especially for this part of the world. They were happy for us to get close to them, however we also saw the aggressive side of their nature. Each had their position in the team because of their personality and strength. They were full of energy each time we set off and it felt as if we were flying at times!
Conditions were just about perfect we were told. The snow which had fallen during the night, provided just the right amount of softness on top of the ice to enable the runners to glide. We sat on the sled in order of height and weight; Chris at the back, then me followed by the Swedish family. We slotted in between each others legs with feet on the runners.
Speeding through forested areas we were especially happy to have an experienced driver in charge as we sped around bends and up and over bumps. Half way into our trip we came to a halt beside a teepee. The dogs sank into the snow, some licking it for a drink, others rolling around, maybe to cool off. Temperatures were still unusually high we were told and the dogs were feeling the warmer temperatures! Getting off the sled took much longer than getting on. Hips and thighs had been working hard and now resisted the need to change stance and get upright! We stiffly alighted the sled and gently reintroduced our legs to a walking stance.
Inside the teepee a fire had been lit and kettles of coffee on the go. We swopped stories with other sled riders whilst drinking our hot coffee and eating the sweet cakes provided. Then it was back on our sleds in our familiar positions and homeward bound.
Arriving back at the Ice Hotel, we watched as the dogs eagerly jumped into their respective places in the cages of the dog transporter. Some needed a helping hand to jump up after the exertions, however all seemed very happy to have had the exercise. As for us, exhilarated is the only way to describe how we felt!
Evening Watch
We'd seen on the Aurora forecast that there was every chance there would be an appearance on our second night, provided the skies weren't too cloudy; a possibility also confirmed by locals. We checked in to our warm chalet and for the first time since our arrival, were able to relax without wearing several layers of clothes. Underfloor heating meant shoes could be discarded and we could also make our own drinks in the small kitchen.
I spent the time familiarising myself again with the camera settings to record the Aurora should it appear. I had just finished setting up the timer when Chris told me he was sure he could see a faint green colouring in the sky. By the time I had gathered my stuff together, the Aurora was showing with increasing intensity. We decided to head out of the Hotel complex and close to the lake where there was less light pollution.
The sky became filled with green, orange and reddish colours as the Aurora danced for us. I'd seen the phenomena once before, however not on such a scale. We didn't know which way to turn and look as shapes and forms swirled, streaked or hung above us. All we could say was "WOW". My camera shutter kept clicking as I tried to ensure I didn't miss any of this spectacular. I needed to be able to record it all so we could believe what we'd seen and relive it in the future.
We were later told that the Aurora we'd witnessed was one of the top displays so far this year. Privileged is certainly how we felt, particularly when Tilde, a member of staff we'd spoken to a few times put it into perspective. She said that a viewing of the Aurora was not something you could buy; it truly was an act of nature and it would be seen or not, according to the vagaries of the weather and not what humans decided.
We watched the display for over an hour. The fingers and thumb of my right hand were numb with cold. We felt unable to go indoors and miss a minute of such an experience. Suddenly, all around us was green. The snow was green, we were tinged with green and the sky was filled with greens of all differing shades. It rained down on us. Amazing, doesn't really do the display justice. Then it was gone! A fitting finale for a memorable event. We were buzzing as we made our way back to our chalet.
We'd seen on the Aurora forecast that there was every chance there would be an appearance on our second night, provided the skies weren't too cloudy; a possibility also confirmed by locals. We checked in to our warm chalet and for the first time since our arrival, were able to relax without wearing several layers of clothes. Underfloor heating meant shoes could be discarded and we could also make our own drinks in the small kitchen.
I spent the time familiarising myself again with the camera settings to record the Aurora should it appear. I had just finished setting up the timer when Chris told me he was sure he could see a faint green colouring in the sky. By the time I had gathered my stuff together, the Aurora was showing with increasing intensity. We decided to head out of the Hotel complex and close to the lake where there was less light pollution.
The sky became filled with green, orange and reddish colours as the Aurora danced for us. I'd seen the phenomena once before, however not on such a scale. We didn't know which way to turn and look as shapes and forms swirled, streaked or hung above us. All we could say was "WOW". My camera shutter kept clicking as I tried to ensure I didn't miss any of this spectacular. I needed to be able to record it all so we could believe what we'd seen and relive it in the future.
We were later told that the Aurora we'd witnessed was one of the top displays so far this year. Privileged is certainly how we felt, particularly when Tilde, a member of staff we'd spoken to a few times put it into perspective. She said that a viewing of the Aurora was not something you could buy; it truly was an act of nature and it would be seen or not, according to the vagaries of the weather and not what humans decided.
We watched the display for over an hour. The fingers and thumb of my right hand were numb with cold. We felt unable to go indoors and miss a minute of such an experience. Suddenly, all around us was green. The snow was green, we were tinged with green and the sky was filled with greens of all differing shades. It rained down on us. Amazing, doesn't really do the display justice. Then it was gone! A fitting finale for a memorable event. We were buzzing as we made our way back to our chalet.
Last Full Day
We had two activities booked for our last full day, the first was a visit to meet reindeer and learn more about the Sámi culture. This nomadic population numbers around 70,000 in total, of whom around 20,000 live in Sweden. Also known in English as Laplanders, the Sámi people have traditionally pursued a variety of livelihoods, however reindeer herding is one of their more traditional and well-known activities. We were off to find out more as well as have a traditional meal and a sleigh ride.
We were collected and taken to the reindeer location by snowmobile; at least this time we had individual seats in wooden sleds which the snowmobile pulled! Temperatures had dropped overnight and face cover was essential as the wind chill ate into any exposed skin surface.
A short journey alongside the frozen River Torne brought us to our destination. We were invited into a lávvu, a traditional temporary Sámi home for a briefing on the itinerary for the afternoon. Our guide for the afternoon was a young Swedish lady who, although not indigenous Sámi, was extremely knowledgeable about their way of life and heavily involved in their culture.
We enjoyed a short documentary film produced by a local Sámi lady describing the traditional way of life for her people.
Then we were taken to see and feed the reindeer. At this point both Chris and I felt that we weren't actually getting the experience we had anticipated. The set-up seemed amateurish and not very authentic. We nonetheless joined in and fed some reindeer, making sure to keep away from the antlers which were in the process of being shed.
Back down towards the lávvu next with three reindeer in tow. They were reluctant participants and avoided being lassoed for as long as possible. They were hitched up to some sleighs and then each of us was given the chance to go solo. I knelt on the sleigh and held on to a rope tightly secured around the sleigh. My other hand held the rope with which I supposedly steered! Those reindeer were going in the direction they wanted, although as it was an enclosure there was no danger of them just taking off. Speed varied between slow, a bit faster and stop. It was an experience however, and I was ready for the meal our guide then prepared in the lávvu. The fact that it was reindeer meat wasn't an issue by that point! We were really hungry after being out and about in the cold all afternoon. The traditional meal calledl suovas (smoked and salted reindeer meat) was fried over the open fire. and was served on a traditional gáhkku (Sámi flat bread) with lingonberries. It was tasty and welcome, as was the freshly boiled coffee afterwards. Then it was a return to the snowmobile and the ride back to the Ice Hotel.
We arrived back later than programmed and were due to go out on a 4 hour trip into the wilderness, Aurora hunting. Given that we'd witnessed the Aurora spectacular the previous evening and we were cold, we decided to forego this last activity and settled for the evening in our lovely warm chalet, followed by a final visit to the Ice Bar.
We had two activities booked for our last full day, the first was a visit to meet reindeer and learn more about the Sámi culture. This nomadic population numbers around 70,000 in total, of whom around 20,000 live in Sweden. Also known in English as Laplanders, the Sámi people have traditionally pursued a variety of livelihoods, however reindeer herding is one of their more traditional and well-known activities. We were off to find out more as well as have a traditional meal and a sleigh ride.
We were collected and taken to the reindeer location by snowmobile; at least this time we had individual seats in wooden sleds which the snowmobile pulled! Temperatures had dropped overnight and face cover was essential as the wind chill ate into any exposed skin surface.
A short journey alongside the frozen River Torne brought us to our destination. We were invited into a lávvu, a traditional temporary Sámi home for a briefing on the itinerary for the afternoon. Our guide for the afternoon was a young Swedish lady who, although not indigenous Sámi, was extremely knowledgeable about their way of life and heavily involved in their culture.
We enjoyed a short documentary film produced by a local Sámi lady describing the traditional way of life for her people.
Then we were taken to see and feed the reindeer. At this point both Chris and I felt that we weren't actually getting the experience we had anticipated. The set-up seemed amateurish and not very authentic. We nonetheless joined in and fed some reindeer, making sure to keep away from the antlers which were in the process of being shed.
Back down towards the lávvu next with three reindeer in tow. They were reluctant participants and avoided being lassoed for as long as possible. They were hitched up to some sleighs and then each of us was given the chance to go solo. I knelt on the sleigh and held on to a rope tightly secured around the sleigh. My other hand held the rope with which I supposedly steered! Those reindeer were going in the direction they wanted, although as it was an enclosure there was no danger of them just taking off. Speed varied between slow, a bit faster and stop. It was an experience however, and I was ready for the meal our guide then prepared in the lávvu. The fact that it was reindeer meat wasn't an issue by that point! We were really hungry after being out and about in the cold all afternoon. The traditional meal calledl suovas (smoked and salted reindeer meat) was fried over the open fire. and was served on a traditional gáhkku (Sámi flat bread) with lingonberries. It was tasty and welcome, as was the freshly boiled coffee afterwards. Then it was a return to the snowmobile and the ride back to the Ice Hotel.
We arrived back later than programmed and were due to go out on a 4 hour trip into the wilderness, Aurora hunting. Given that we'd witnessed the Aurora spectacular the previous evening and we were cold, we decided to forego this last activity and settled for the evening in our lovely warm chalet, followed by a final visit to the Ice Bar.
Homeward Bound
It had snowed again during the night and temperatures had dropped once again. We ventured out after breakfast to take in as many of the sights as we could before our transfer to Kiruna airport and the first leg of our journey back to Spain via Stockholm.
It truly was a winter wonderland. Snow hung from branches, it crunched under our feet as we walked and there were plenty of places where we would leave our own footprints in the freshly fallen snow. Retreating to the warmth of reception with our cases, to await transfer to Kiruna Airport, we reflected on our adventure of a lifetime. It was a short trip to the airport and our plane was ready and waiting.
It had snowed again during the night and temperatures had dropped once again. We ventured out after breakfast to take in as many of the sights as we could before our transfer to Kiruna airport and the first leg of our journey back to Spain via Stockholm.
It truly was a winter wonderland. Snow hung from branches, it crunched under our feet as we walked and there were plenty of places where we would leave our own footprints in the freshly fallen snow. Retreating to the warmth of reception with our cases, to await transfer to Kiruna Airport, we reflected on our adventure of a lifetime. It was a short trip to the airport and our plane was ready and waiting.
Stockholm
Our 1½ hour flight and subsequent bus transfer saw us arrive at our hotel in Stockholm for the night. The following morning we decided to visit the Abba Museum which was about 40 mins away. Prices in Sweden encouraged us to use public transport. We caught the transfer bus to the airport and were able to check in our luggage with the airline. That gave us a couple of hours to find our way to the museum. We caught the Arlanda Express into Stockholm city and then a short taxi ride to the Museum. It was snowing quite heavily by this time and we were glad of the warmth in the Museum.
It was certainly worth a visit, however if we ever went again, we'd want more time to use the interactive and recording facilities. We managed to get a photo done (of sorts!) where we were supposedly able to choose a member of the group and have our face superimposed. Didn't really work, however it was a giggle.
Our flight was delayed for an hour whilst we sat in the plane and waited for a de-icer to come and do its work. A fluid was sprayed onto the plane and we watched as a thickish, brown liquid ran down and covered all the windows. From inside the plane, it actually sounded like ice breaking up as the fluid was sprayed under pressure to all parts.
We were tired after the 4½ hour flight finally landed and we collected our car. The warm wind on our faces as we stripped off layers of clothes helped to revive us and when we finally walked through the front door to be greeted by our three cats, we knew we were home again.
Our 1½ hour flight and subsequent bus transfer saw us arrive at our hotel in Stockholm for the night. The following morning we decided to visit the Abba Museum which was about 40 mins away. Prices in Sweden encouraged us to use public transport. We caught the transfer bus to the airport and were able to check in our luggage with the airline. That gave us a couple of hours to find our way to the museum. We caught the Arlanda Express into Stockholm city and then a short taxi ride to the Museum. It was snowing quite heavily by this time and we were glad of the warmth in the Museum.
It was certainly worth a visit, however if we ever went again, we'd want more time to use the interactive and recording facilities. We managed to get a photo done (of sorts!) where we were supposedly able to choose a member of the group and have our face superimposed. Didn't really work, however it was a giggle.
Our flight was delayed for an hour whilst we sat in the plane and waited for a de-icer to come and do its work. A fluid was sprayed onto the plane and we watched as a thickish, brown liquid ran down and covered all the windows. From inside the plane, it actually sounded like ice breaking up as the fluid was sprayed under pressure to all parts.
We were tired after the 4½ hour flight finally landed and we collected our car. The warm wind on our faces as we stripped off layers of clothes helped to revive us and when we finally walked through the front door to be greeted by our three cats, we knew we were home again.