15th - 18th September, 2021
Hotel Caravaggio, Florence, Italy
A short while after leaving Menton, we crossed the border into Italy. Again there were no checks and in reality, the only way of recognising we'd passed into another country was the increase in petrol prices! The journey to Florence was uneventful, motorway driving which saw us reach our chosen hotel in late afternoon. Our car was collected and garaged for the duration of our stay and once checked in, we set out to get our bearings in this lovely city.
I particularly wanted to get to the Arno River and locate the Ponte Vecchio which had enthralled me on my previous visit.
I particularly wanted to get to the Arno River and locate the Ponte Vecchio which had enthralled me on my previous visit.
The manager of our hotel was extremely helpful and the next morning we decided to follow his instructions and catch a bus to the highest point overlooking the city. First of all though, we needed to find somewhere nearby for breakfast. We came across a place which sold something we could all eat and squeezed inside to sit at the last table. A notice asked if dirty plates and cups etc., could be placed on the counter when leaving. We duly obliged and left the cafe to a chorus of "grazies" from staff. We were walking towards the bus stop when I suddenly realised I had left my rucksack in the cafe! I'd hung it on my chair and in the rush to clean the breakfast crockery and picking up my camera, I had completely forgotten about it. I haven't run so fast for a long while, imagining as I did so, the problems I'd have to deal with if it had gone. As I rushed back into the cafe, knowing faces turned to me, smiling. I was told that someone had noticed my rucksack and handed it in to one of the women behind the counter. Oh, the relief! Reunited again with my possessions, I felt quite shocked that I could walk out without my rucksack; it is as much a part of me as is my camera.
We caught the bus and as we alighted, the gloomy skies became more overcast and rain started to fall. As always, there's an enterprising soul ready for any eventuality and we were quickly able to buy umbrellas. The highest point overlooking the city gave a good overview of the general layout and although clouds were low, the vistas were impressive. We decided to walk back down to the river and found a direct route which took us through a park area and via several shortcuts. In no time at all we were back exploring the narrow streets, park areas, workshop businesses and activity on the river.
Feeling peckish, we saw bruschetta with tomato topping in a shop window. We went inside and ordered, then realised that the shop was part of a restaurant directly in the main Plaza! We ordered a drink to go with our food and accepted that it wasn't going to be a cheap meal. Determined to enjoy to situation nonethless, we were very disciplined and turned down the offer of a sweet to follow! Leaving the restaurant our eyes alighted on a gelateria. With only a moment's hesitation we headed inside and ordered our selection. Sitting on the edge of one of the flowerbeds in the covered way, we savoured every last lick of our indulgent purchases and vowed to economise another day!
All day long there had been a helicopter hovering in the skies above us, so much so that we thought we were being targetted for some reason (we have a track record with regard to helicopters on our walks!). We learnt later on when stopping for an evening drink, that members of the G20 summit were in town and being ferried around to various locations under strict security.
We caught the bus and as we alighted, the gloomy skies became more overcast and rain started to fall. As always, there's an enterprising soul ready for any eventuality and we were quickly able to buy umbrellas. The highest point overlooking the city gave a good overview of the general layout and although clouds were low, the vistas were impressive. We decided to walk back down to the river and found a direct route which took us through a park area and via several shortcuts. In no time at all we were back exploring the narrow streets, park areas, workshop businesses and activity on the river.
Feeling peckish, we saw bruschetta with tomato topping in a shop window. We went inside and ordered, then realised that the shop was part of a restaurant directly in the main Plaza! We ordered a drink to go with our food and accepted that it wasn't going to be a cheap meal. Determined to enjoy to situation nonethless, we were very disciplined and turned down the offer of a sweet to follow! Leaving the restaurant our eyes alighted on a gelateria. With only a moment's hesitation we headed inside and ordered our selection. Sitting on the edge of one of the flowerbeds in the covered way, we savoured every last lick of our indulgent purchases and vowed to economise another day!
All day long there had been a helicopter hovering in the skies above us, so much so that we thought we were being targetted for some reason (we have a track record with regard to helicopters on our walks!). We learnt later on when stopping for an evening drink, that members of the G20 summit were in town and being ferried around to various locations under strict security.
During the night there was a tremendous storm and although I could hear thunder and lightning, the rain lashed the window so hard that visibility was much reduced. The storm was so violent that I daren't open any window. I did however, manage to capture a vision of the storm's wrath from inside our bedroom with the windows firmly shut!
We found a different cafe for breakfast which offered a much better selection for our varying tastes. Wandering through the streets again, we spotted an interesting old bar and restaurant. There was a glass floor looking down into the cellar with any amount of bottles of wine on display. The restaurant itself was set in a beautiful part of the building and had some unusual paintings adorning the walls. We just had to book a table there for our last night in Florence!
Whether it was the overcast conditions, I'm not sure, however my feeling thus far, on returning to one of the few cities I had truly enjoyed visiting before, was one of disappointment. I decided to take myself back to the area I'd stayed in several years ago to try and understand why I was seeing it in a different light this time. En route I came across the G20 circus with large areas sealed off to the public.
I navigated my way back to the rooms I'd stayed in on my previous visit and then to landmarks I remembered. The area was different, much more run down and and air of neglect. I stopped to speak to some cobblers working in the traditional manner, however workshops such as this had all but disappeared. There weren't many people about in the streets and the area didn't really feel safe. I made my way back towards the river, understanding my disappointment more.
We found a different cafe for breakfast which offered a much better selection for our varying tastes. Wandering through the streets again, we spotted an interesting old bar and restaurant. There was a glass floor looking down into the cellar with any amount of bottles of wine on display. The restaurant itself was set in a beautiful part of the building and had some unusual paintings adorning the walls. We just had to book a table there for our last night in Florence!
Whether it was the overcast conditions, I'm not sure, however my feeling thus far, on returning to one of the few cities I had truly enjoyed visiting before, was one of disappointment. I decided to take myself back to the area I'd stayed in several years ago to try and understand why I was seeing it in a different light this time. En route I came across the G20 circus with large areas sealed off to the public.
I navigated my way back to the rooms I'd stayed in on my previous visit and then to landmarks I remembered. The area was different, much more run down and and air of neglect. I stopped to speak to some cobblers working in the traditional manner, however workshops such as this had all but disappeared. There weren't many people about in the streets and the area didn't really feel safe. I made my way back towards the river, understanding my disappointment more.
One of the experiences we'd promised ourselves, was to find and use, a Buchetta del Vino. These curiosities are also known as wine windows and date back to the 1630s when they were used to sell food and wine during the Plague. Not only did we want to sample some wine served in this manner, we also felt it absolutely appropriate given the state of the world at present.
We found a few, however it took some investigation to find one which was actually working. It was located at a restaurant which we discovered to our delight, was a little gem called Restaurant Babae. Once we'd received our wine through the Buchetta, we went inside and enjoyed the great atmosphere and music. It was a brilliant way to start our last evening in Florence.
Returning to the main area and our chosen restaurant for our meal, the sun put on a lovely display as it sank below the horizon and we headed to the restaurant where we'd booked a table to enjoy our last meal in this lovely city.
We found a few, however it took some investigation to find one which was actually working. It was located at a restaurant which we discovered to our delight, was a little gem called Restaurant Babae. Once we'd received our wine through the Buchetta, we went inside and enjoyed the great atmosphere and music. It was a brilliant way to start our last evening in Florence.
Returning to the main area and our chosen restaurant for our meal, the sun put on a lovely display as it sank below the horizon and we headed to the restaurant where we'd booked a table to enjoy our last meal in this lovely city.
The following morning our car was delivered back to us at the hotel, the cases were packed into the boot (something else which had become more routine) and after a short walk for breakfast, we were once again on the road to our next destination.