Adventures of the two in 2015
June 17th -19th, 2015 - Stage 7, Spain to Lourdes
June 16th
We arrived in Spain and made our way to Torroella de Montgri and my brother's place after getting slightly lost and then finding another road which turned out to be a faster route anyway.
There was time to clean out the car and get ourselves organised for departure the next day; Jayne to the UK, Lourdes and me to Lourdes in France. Jayne wanted to get in some last minute sun bathing on the beach so I dropped her off and we arranged to meet for a meal later in the evening.
I bought a few things at the famous Chinese shop in the town including items for Nell as she was allowed into the shop with me. The place is like an aladdin's cave and it's great to mooch about and see what's on the shelves.
Our last meal together................enjoyable and yet tinged with sadness. We weren't late returning and once alarms were set, it was straight to bed.
June 17th
A very early start to get Jayne to the airport for 6am. She and Lourdes drove the hire car and I was reunited with my Dream Machine. All was straightforward until we reached the airport where the entrance to the car park area for hire cars was closed. There was nothing for it but to park the car in the main car park and deposit the ticket and key in the postbox at the appropriate desk. Then it was a quick drink and a quick goodbye to Jayne.
Lourdes and I had discussed the possibility of heading to Lourdes via Andora, just to have a look. However, it put another hour and a half on to the journey so we took the direct route and arrived in Lourdes early afternoon. Reception at the hotel was closed although there were some deep seats into which we sank to wait. Once settled into our room we went out to explore, making our way to the tourist office to find out what was going on. It appeared that the most significant even was the candlelit procession at 9pm each night.
We wanted to explore the town first though and headed towards the Fort. There were some interesting displays illustrating the historic past and living conditions of the population. Gardens outside provided somewhere to sit and relax in the shade. There were also miniature dwellings to see which had been constructed in minute detail. We were up high and able to get an idea of our bearings. We could see the Sanctuary where the procession would be held and roughly worked out which way to walk. Setting out later to find the location, we headed towards the river. We came across quite a few Spanish families obviously living rough. Their vehicles were parked under trees and they were washing clothes alongside the river. It was sad to see and a bit intimidating with the numbers involved.
We knew we were heading in the right direction when we saw groups of people clutching candles heading along the road. Following them, we came to an area packed with souvenir and bric-brac stuff. They stretched along several roads from one end to the other. All roads eventually led to the Sanctuary where the procession is held. The roads were also lined with beggars, most of whom had a child with them. They were aggressive too in their quest to gain attention and money.
Reaching the entrance to the Sanctuary, the first thing to grab my attention was a long list of "not allowed". Of course it included dogs, so Lourdes went alone whilst I looked for a vantage point higher up. The bell tolled and the procession started. It was impressive to watch as hundreds of people participated, walking slowly, being helped or pushed along in wheel chairs. Even more people seemed to be watching although as it wasn't yet dark the flames of candles weren't prominent.
Lourdes rejoined me and we walked around the perimeter. I climbed a wall to see if I could capture a photo of the lit cathderal; I'm sure it wasn't allowed!
We found somewhere to eat and then started to find our way back to the hotel. We weren't sure exactly where we were. It was getting on for midnight and the streets were deserted. I felt distinctly uneasy and sensed a dark side to this pilgramage town of Lourdes. We headed towards lights and realised it wasn't too far from the hotel. We resolved to find another way to return from the candlelit procession the next night.
We arrived in Spain and made our way to Torroella de Montgri and my brother's place after getting slightly lost and then finding another road which turned out to be a faster route anyway.
There was time to clean out the car and get ourselves organised for departure the next day; Jayne to the UK, Lourdes and me to Lourdes in France. Jayne wanted to get in some last minute sun bathing on the beach so I dropped her off and we arranged to meet for a meal later in the evening.
I bought a few things at the famous Chinese shop in the town including items for Nell as she was allowed into the shop with me. The place is like an aladdin's cave and it's great to mooch about and see what's on the shelves.
Our last meal together................enjoyable and yet tinged with sadness. We weren't late returning and once alarms were set, it was straight to bed.
June 17th
A very early start to get Jayne to the airport for 6am. She and Lourdes drove the hire car and I was reunited with my Dream Machine. All was straightforward until we reached the airport where the entrance to the car park area for hire cars was closed. There was nothing for it but to park the car in the main car park and deposit the ticket and key in the postbox at the appropriate desk. Then it was a quick drink and a quick goodbye to Jayne.
Lourdes and I had discussed the possibility of heading to Lourdes via Andora, just to have a look. However, it put another hour and a half on to the journey so we took the direct route and arrived in Lourdes early afternoon. Reception at the hotel was closed although there were some deep seats into which we sank to wait. Once settled into our room we went out to explore, making our way to the tourist office to find out what was going on. It appeared that the most significant even was the candlelit procession at 9pm each night.
We wanted to explore the town first though and headed towards the Fort. There were some interesting displays illustrating the historic past and living conditions of the population. Gardens outside provided somewhere to sit and relax in the shade. There were also miniature dwellings to see which had been constructed in minute detail. We were up high and able to get an idea of our bearings. We could see the Sanctuary where the procession would be held and roughly worked out which way to walk. Setting out later to find the location, we headed towards the river. We came across quite a few Spanish families obviously living rough. Their vehicles were parked under trees and they were washing clothes alongside the river. It was sad to see and a bit intimidating with the numbers involved.
We knew we were heading in the right direction when we saw groups of people clutching candles heading along the road. Following them, we came to an area packed with souvenir and bric-brac stuff. They stretched along several roads from one end to the other. All roads eventually led to the Sanctuary where the procession is held. The roads were also lined with beggars, most of whom had a child with them. They were aggressive too in their quest to gain attention and money.
Reaching the entrance to the Sanctuary, the first thing to grab my attention was a long list of "not allowed". Of course it included dogs, so Lourdes went alone whilst I looked for a vantage point higher up. The bell tolled and the procession started. It was impressive to watch as hundreds of people participated, walking slowly, being helped or pushed along in wheel chairs. Even more people seemed to be watching although as it wasn't yet dark the flames of candles weren't prominent.
Lourdes rejoined me and we walked around the perimeter. I climbed a wall to see if I could capture a photo of the lit cathderal; I'm sure it wasn't allowed!
We found somewhere to eat and then started to find our way back to the hotel. We weren't sure exactly where we were. It was getting on for midnight and the streets were deserted. I felt distinctly uneasy and sensed a dark side to this pilgramage town of Lourdes. We headed towards lights and realised it wasn't too far from the hotel. We resolved to find another way to return from the candlelit procession the next night.
June 18th
After a delicious breakfast we wanted to head for the Finicular railway which travels to the top of a mountain outside Lourdes. Deciding to walk from the hotel as it didn't look too far on the map, we arrived after a while, a bit hot and bothered! We were able to sit and recuperate somewhat whilst waiting for the next train, however which was due in 15 mins. There weren't too many pasengers which meant Lourdes, Nell and I had a carriage to ourselves. Nell wasn't too happy when noises occured as the wheels went over places on the track; I guess she was taken straight back to the train journey in La Spezia. However, as before, as soon as we stopped and she hopped out, she enjoyed the freedom of being able to run. She even sussed out a snake for us! As it was still early the snake was dozy and didn't react to Nell's curiosity; we did!
There was a large cross on the very top of the mountain and we set out to reach it. Lourdes knee began to play up though, so Nell and I headed to the top on our own. It was lovely to feel the wind and freedom of being up high and I decided that I'd rather walk back down the mountain with Nell rather than ride in the Finicular again.
We sat and had a drink and then Lourdes caught the train back down. She intended to catch a bus when she left the train and we were to meet up back at the hotel. Nell and I enjoyed the hour long walk down the mountain in the shade of the trees. The half an hour afterwards back to the hotel along streets wasn't quite so enjoyable, however we arrived back more or less at the same time as Lourdes as she'd had to wait for public transport.
We thought we'd eat before going to watch the procession and on the way walked through a nearby cemetery where family members were buried in the same graves. It made fascinating reading through the generations, especially as details that many were part of resistance movements were given. Later, we found a restaurant where the staff were really great with Nell. One of the waiters turned out to have parents who came from Malaga.
Then it was time for the procession. We'd agreed that Lourdes would go in first and do what she wanted, then I'd have a wander to take some photos from inside the area. I didn't stay too long though. I'd chatted with Lourdes about what it all meant to her. I tried to follow what she said, however I couldn't feel it. My eyes were drawn to the associated commercialism. Numerous bottles purchased to fill with water; this same water in which upstream, homeless people washed themselves and their clothes of necessity not religious gestures. Expensive candles for sale everywhere and I even witnessed a group purchase the largest candle available. It took four of them to carry it horizontally. What was the point of it I wondered? Did they think that the bigger the candle the bigger the blessing? The ostantatiousness of religious artefacts which were all around unsettled me. The haves and have nots. I tried to feel and failed. I still don't understand. Still, we were there for Lourdes to have the religous experience, I had enjoyed everything else and was glad I was there too.
After a delicious breakfast we wanted to head for the Finicular railway which travels to the top of a mountain outside Lourdes. Deciding to walk from the hotel as it didn't look too far on the map, we arrived after a while, a bit hot and bothered! We were able to sit and recuperate somewhat whilst waiting for the next train, however which was due in 15 mins. There weren't too many pasengers which meant Lourdes, Nell and I had a carriage to ourselves. Nell wasn't too happy when noises occured as the wheels went over places on the track; I guess she was taken straight back to the train journey in La Spezia. However, as before, as soon as we stopped and she hopped out, she enjoyed the freedom of being able to run. She even sussed out a snake for us! As it was still early the snake was dozy and didn't react to Nell's curiosity; we did!
There was a large cross on the very top of the mountain and we set out to reach it. Lourdes knee began to play up though, so Nell and I headed to the top on our own. It was lovely to feel the wind and freedom of being up high and I decided that I'd rather walk back down the mountain with Nell rather than ride in the Finicular again.
We sat and had a drink and then Lourdes caught the train back down. She intended to catch a bus when she left the train and we were to meet up back at the hotel. Nell and I enjoyed the hour long walk down the mountain in the shade of the trees. The half an hour afterwards back to the hotel along streets wasn't quite so enjoyable, however we arrived back more or less at the same time as Lourdes as she'd had to wait for public transport.
We thought we'd eat before going to watch the procession and on the way walked through a nearby cemetery where family members were buried in the same graves. It made fascinating reading through the generations, especially as details that many were part of resistance movements were given. Later, we found a restaurant where the staff were really great with Nell. One of the waiters turned out to have parents who came from Malaga.
Then it was time for the procession. We'd agreed that Lourdes would go in first and do what she wanted, then I'd have a wander to take some photos from inside the area. I didn't stay too long though. I'd chatted with Lourdes about what it all meant to her. I tried to follow what she said, however I couldn't feel it. My eyes were drawn to the associated commercialism. Numerous bottles purchased to fill with water; this same water in which upstream, homeless people washed themselves and their clothes of necessity not religious gestures. Expensive candles for sale everywhere and I even witnessed a group purchase the largest candle available. It took four of them to carry it horizontally. What was the point of it I wondered? Did they think that the bigger the candle the bigger the blessing? The ostantatiousness of religious artefacts which were all around unsettled me. The haves and have nots. I tried to feel and failed. I still don't understand. Still, we were there for Lourdes to have the religous experience, I had enjoyed everything else and was glad I was there too.